Upgraded fence for Craftsman Table Saw?
Buzzsaw
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
I inherited a 10″ tilting arbor table saw from my father about two years ago. I love the table saw because it was my Dad’s and it was free but lately I have had to rip a lot of plywood but I can only rip at the maximum 9″ wide pieces due to the fact that the fence is the original fence. I am interested in any suggestions as to the best way to upgrade my fence to handle larger sheets such as plywood. Obviously I am looking for an affordable solution and would love to hear from others who have upgraded fences on older Craftsmans.
Regards,
Buzzsaw
Replies
If you do a search on Craftsman and Accusquare using the Advanced Search option you'll find several people who have retrofitted their Craftsman with that fence by Mule Cabinetmakers. Here's the internet link:
http://www.mulecab.com/products.asp?mnu_Products=1
They have several models, and they're very reasonably priced. They also provide a 90-day, no-questions-asked, guarantee. Note that the fence name is AccuSquare (not Accufence, which is a not-so-good, now defunct add-on fence).
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Prior to buying a cabinet saw, I added a 50 " Bessy fence to my 1970 Craftsman saw. It is one of the best fences on the market and it made a considerable difference in the operation of the saw. My youngest Son now has the saw.
Roger
What is the model number of the saw? With only 9 inches to the side of the blade for ripping, it sounds like a very small machine and the fences being suggested may not be appropriate.
John W.
Good observation John, I and probably Forrest girl looked at the word table saw and "assumed' it was a contractor type.
Roger
It is a Craftman model 100. I think it was purchased in the late 60s or early 70s. It is a 10" tilting arbor saw. This is the only picture I have of it here at work under my crosscut sled. I'll take another picture of just the saw tonight. It is made of heavy gauge steel and sits on a metal stand. It is definitely not a bench-top model. This would be considered a contractor saw. You can see the front fence rail in this picture. I will post a picture of just the saw when I get home...
Regards,
Buzzsaw
I'm familiar with that saw, owned one for a few years. I remember not liking the fence at all, but it was otherwise a decent machine.
A smaller model of a Biesemeyer type of fence should work on that model but, like all fences of that style, you need to add a side table to support the fence. Biesemeyer and it's clones come with a back rail but its only function is to support the side table, the rail doesn't support the fence directly.
Fences from most of the other makers should also work well, provided they can be fitted to a saw with the front to back depth of your machine. Those fences that lock on the outfeed end can usually only be installed on saws with a certain front to rear depth, which is more or less standardized on contractors saws, but your saw may not be this standard size.
John W.
Thanks John. I understand that it is an older saw, hence standard size of fence, etc is not the same as the newer saws. I do love it though mostly because of the sentimental value and it is a very sturdy machine. I will have to research the Biesemeyer fence (smaller version) and others for retrofitting this machine. I really don't want to part with it for both the sentimental reasons and what it costs to purchase a newer machine. I'd rather spend that money on equipment I don't already have. I'm also going to ask my woodworking teacher as I'm sure he will have a number of ideas for modification of the saw.Regards,
Buzzsaw
John,
Here are a few pictures of my Craftsman 100. note the limited space to the right and left of the blade. There is an attachment on the left side but that is only for support. The fence doesn't go any further on the left side than the right. I have added a folding extension table on the back of the saw...
Regards,
Buzzsaw
Do you have (or can you get) a table extension wing for the right side? I think that if you got another extension, many of the aftermarket fences would fit.
Most of the front bars for the aftermarket fences extend several feet to the right of the blade, so having a single cast iron extension, 9 or 10 inches wide, doesn't make much of a difference, he will still need to make a side table.
John W.
I was talking about the extension table that I put on the back. I could probably just take it off, add the back rail, and then put it back on and it should work fine.Regards,
Buzzsaw
Buzzsaw,
This looks very similar to a saw that I had for many years, except that I had two of those open-type extension wings. Mine could be mounted on either side, or both on the same side. Can your's be moved to the right side? If so, and the fence support also moved (or flipped over, depending on its design), that would provide some immediate help with your limited rip capacity. Replacing all of it with a new fence is a better long term solution, but it does appear that you might be able to do something to help out in the interim.
Woody
Woody (good name, by the way),
I can put the open-type extension wings on either side but the rails for the fence only go so far. Hence, I'm stuck with like a 9" ripping width. That limits me a lot. I have looked a bit at the mulecab accusquare fence that was suggested previously and I also like the router table extension that comes with it. That would help me with my limited space. I actually bought the plans and video for Norm's router table but this might make more sense for me. I do have an extension table on the back that I built and supposedly I can use the AccuSquare fence using only the front rail but I'm wondering how well it works with only the front rail. My Dad gave me the saw (he is 81) and still polishes it up when he comes to visit. He lives in a retirement community now and cannot have any type of shop. So the sentimental value with this saw is big for me.
How do you figure by putting the extension table on the right side would help me? The distance from the saw to the fence is still only 9". Am I missing something? Thanks for your post...Regards,
Buzzsaw
Woody,
I misspoke. I just went down to my shop and if I move the fence to the left of the blade and go all the way over on the rail I have 17" between the fence and the blade. I think you were referring to the amount of wood to the right of the blade if I have the fence on the left side of the blade and have the extension on the right side. Yes, you were correct in assuming that I can rip a larger width. I'm always thinking of the amount I am ripping to be the amount of wood between the blade and the fence. Obviously if you want to rip equal lengths that is the ideal situation. Just wasn't thinking correctly...Regards,
Buzzsaw
Buzzsaw,
It sounds like you have looked it over pretty thoroughly, so I won't try to tell you what to do. You just normally see the extension on the right side when there is only one extension, and generally the fence track is made to work on the right -- I thought it might be movable, if that was what you were wanting to do. Your's is currently on the left.
I do understand about sentimental things, they are special. I just bought an ancient 50 yr old Unisaw that is a wonderful piece of machinery, and I also want to build in a router table. Incidentally, mine has the "bessy" fence and doesn't even have a back rail. The only function of the back rail with this type of fence is to support the fence in the event you don't have a table extension to support it -- all squaring is done from the front rail, functioning much like a drafting T-square. It is wonderful in its simplicity with great accuracy and rigidity, plus it becomes a solid mount for the many supplemental jibs that will help you with the saw. I'm sure you will enjoy it.
Have a Merry Christmas
Woody (which, incidentally, is my real name -- I guess my mom & dad were psychic)
Woody,
I'm sold on this item. I just may wait to purchase based on other priorities in my shop. My real name is not Buzzsaw but has been a nickname of mine for years, even before I got into woodworking. Thanks for the info. I take it you do not have the router table attachment?Regards,
Buzzsaw
No, I don't have the router attachment. I will likely construct most of it myself. Some look pretty neat, but they are expensive. I am still in the process of building my shop and getting set up. I will get to work more on the tools later.
Woody
Woody,
I actually bought the plans and video for Norm's router table but this looks really cool and doubles as an extension table to the right of the saw and as a router table. It sounds like you are in a similar situation as I am in, just developing your workshop. I just recently completed a miter station that I saw in the 2002/2003 Tools and Shops Annual Issue. It's the one that was in the small shop in the garage. I bought a bunch of Veritas tool box trays for it. I can now offload stuff I had in a large cabinet I had in my shop so I can free up some space. I have to make room for a future drill press and a band saw. I want to buy free standing ones and not the benchtop version. What size is your shop? Mine is 12X18 in my basement. I also have to buy a dust colletion system, etc. Do you have a bench yet? I have one nearly complete but I have to add end caps, a front skirt, and a vise. Regards,
Buzzsaw
Buzz, I was afforded the opportunity to build a new shop thanks to a divorce a couple of years ago. I have built a 16x20 freestanding shop with a full upper level for storage. I have moved most of tools in, but all is not yet setteled. I also have free standing tools, not benchtop, along with a few organizational changes. I am building my workbench now. It seems that you need one to build one, so I am working off a lot of temporary things. But, it is coming together.
Woody
I have an old Craftsman 10" table saw. I bought it (used) over 30 years ago and had trouble adjusting the fence right from the gitgo. The fence did not track front-to-rear very well and I had to spend 2-3 minutes adjusting front and back each time I set up for a rip operation. I looked at the aftermarket fences but they all seemed too big for the saw (and the tight storage space under my work table where I stow the saw when not in use). I finally decided to try out a new fence and I bought one of those Shop Fox fences. It fit the Craftsman with no problem and really works well for me. Even though I can no longer store the saw under my high work table it is such a treat not to have to fiddle with it each time I reset it.
Jack,
I agree about setting the fence. I always have to use a ruler and measure the distance from fence to blade both in front of and behind the blade. That is a real pain for me. I'd appreciate if you could get me the model of the Shop Fox fence if you have it. Thanks.Regards,
Buzzsaw
I'll go look up the info and get back to you.
I bought a Shop Fox fence called "The Incredible Shop Fox Fence". Out of the Grizzley catalog, it is model G4722 and fits a 27" (front-to-back) table. It cost around $300. There is a new aluminum model out that is less expensive.
Thanks Jack,
I checked it out and it looks interesting. Do you have a Craftsman and could you post a picture of your saw with the ShopFox fence installed? Regards,
Buzzsaw
I'll try to get something for you to look at.
Buzzsaw,
I really think you should heed Forestgirl's suggestion and go with the Accusquare. They offer both the standard model and one that is less deep for smaller saws. I don't think you will find a more reasonably priced fence on the market. I put one on my Craftsman two years ago and the only regret I have is that I didn't do it sooner!
SoCalDon,
Can you post a picture of your saw? Also, I think there are some after-market fences that have a rail only in the front so as not to have to undo an extension table that may have been put onto the back of a table saw. I'm pretty sure I've read about fences that only had the rail in the front...Regards,
Buzzsaw
Buzzsaw,
I don't have a picture of my saw with the fence installed but it looks identical to the one you pulled off Rockler's slight except the Accusquare Fence is gold and I have solid wings rather than webbed. Yes, that is a Router table built in. I don't have one of those. The Accusquare fence can be installed without the back rail if you so choose. I suggest you go to the Mulecab site Forest Girl referenced previously and read up. The site will answer most of your questions and you can also call them. They are great people!
SoCalDon,
I just did a search and found this on the Rockler website. It even looks like my saw. Is that a router table attachment on the right-hand side? ForestGirl, thanks for the suggestion but I thought you had mentioned earlier that it may not fit my saw.
Regards,
Buzzsaw
"...but I thought you had mentioned earlier that it may not fit my saw." Not me. I think you should call them at MuleCab and get their advice. That saw is the best buy on the market, and has a proven track record. If MuleCab gives you thumbs up, you'd have 90 days to change your mind.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Thanks for the suggestion. I checked out that site...Regards,
Buzzsaw
Check out the pictures I posted on As Requested-ShopPhotos thread. The heart of the shop is a 1953 Craftsman table saw with a lot of mods.
Alan & Lynette Mikkelsen, Mountain View Farm, est. 1934, Gardens & Fine Woodworking, St. Ignatius, MT
Alan,
Can you tell me what fence you added? The saw and shop looks very impressive...Regards,
Buzzsaw
That's the Mulecab Accusquare fence.Alan & Lynette Mikkelsen, Mountain View Farm, est. 1934, Gardens & Fine Woodworking, St. Ignatius, MT
Great thanks. That is the one I am looking at. Is your Craftsman a model 100?Regards,
Buzzsaw
I'm not sure about the model number. I'll check on it.Alan & Lynette Mikkelsen, Mountain View Farm, est. 1934, Gardens & Fine Woodworking, St. Ignatius, MT
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