Upgrading rip fence on 10″ contractor TS
Hello,
I’ve been ‘tool-sitting’ a 10″ Craftsman contractor-style table saw for the step-kid’s grandparents, and was informed that if I wanted it, I could basically have it. I’ve re-hab’d this thing somewhat already (long story), and gotten it to where it runs pretty smooth, and cuts very nicely… as well as or better than I expected, given the horror stories I hear about late-model Sears Craftsman power tools in general (saw was purchased something like mid 2001 or so).
Like I said the saw cuts nicely. I’m working on a couple of cross-cut sleds at the moment, and since it looks like I will be hanging on to this thing for a while, I’m interested in upgrading the stock fence. The original ‘Accu-Rip’ fence is pretty much at the point where I use a steel rule marked in 64ths and measure from a reference point to get the fence parallel front and rear. Slow, and tedious, to say the least.
So, I’m interested in opinions on fence upgrades. One of the best known appears to be the Biesemeyer T-Square Universal setup, in whatever width I decide to build a table for (28″, 40″, or 52″). I know little to nothing about other names out there, beyond seeing (among others) mentioned ones like Vega, Mule, Unifence, Excalibur, etc. Links to reviews (if there are any) would be great. I’m slowly hunting down information on the ones I have a vague clue as to the name of, so any help or links to manufacturers would be a major bennie at this point!
TIA,
Monte
Replies
I just last week put a 52" Biesemeyer on my 10" craftsman saw. I built the extension table and outfeed table myself. Instructions were included with the fence for making the extension table. As for the legs on the extension table I used the same legs that are shown on the outfeed table that was published in the October 1994 issue of FW. I built the same outfeed table shown and love every minute of my saw! How I ever got along with that crappy craftsman fence I'll never know!! The cutting capacity is staggering. I no longer have to first cross cut a sheet of plywood with a circular saw, what a pain in the arse that was! I chose the 42" long fence because it provides a longer guide for a much easier and more accurate cut.
I was told by someone that did the same thing 2 years ago that it was a must to upgrade, I told him I could not afford it! knowing what I know now I should (and would)have taken a loan out for this one! If you are interested I will send you an autocad drawing of how I attached the outfeed table to the saw. The only problem with the outfeed table shown in issue #108 is that if built exactly like shown you cannot tilt the blade on the contractor style saw 45 degrees without removing the outfeed table. This was a sacrafice I was willing to make! I rarley if at all need to make a 45. When that day comes I will use the circular saw and a straight edge. Good Luck!
Hello:
I am in the same position as milanuk, although my Craftsman TS is an older version (113.298240). I too am on the verge of purchasing an after-market fence and am considering the Biesemeyer and HTC. The micro-adjust feature of the HTC is quite appealing. I am wondering if any of you have experience with HTC fences or other advice to offer on after-market fences.
Thanks for any input.
Hmmm... starting to lean towards a Biesemeyer or clone thereof. Can't find much on HTC or Vega as far as web pages; are they some 'house' brand of some other company or something? The only good HTC picture I found was on WoodCraft, and the only good Vega picture was on Rockler's site.
The HTC seems like it'd be a good option w/ the micro-adjust, if it really works as advertised.
Anyone out there familiar w/ either the Vega or a Biesemeyer and care to give a sales pitch vs. an regular Bies?
Thanks,
Monte
Monte
I have a Vega Home style fence that I just took off my old Sears Craftsman saw.
Actually, the Vega fence is pretty nice.
Round front rail, square rear rail. Easy to mount and align, pretty much nothing to it.
I did it without instructions and had no problem.
Slides smooth, is pretty accurate and has a micro adjust built in.
All said and done, if I needed a fence, I'd probably buy the commercial version, which
has a heavier rail, and longer.
Now if you're wondering, I have a Biesemeyer commercial fence on my cabinet saw.
It's heavier, has no micro adjust and slides alot harder.
But it is a tank.
I've modified it to take accessories and jigs.
I switched the Sears saw with the Vega Fence also to a Biesemeyer, but not the
long one. This way, I can use the modified fence for jigs and such.
But mostly, I switched so that I could put an outfeed table on the saws having them
back to back, with each acting as the final outfeed table to the other, and the rear
rails are the same to make it easy to line up.
I like both fences and I think you can't go wrong with either.
Jeff
I bought a Beismeyer, but the HTC came out a month later, and like it better. Easier changing of fences.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Monte:
I do not think HTC has its own website -- but they do sell their fences through a number of Woodworking supply houses. In general, I have had very good luck buying tools and supplies from Lee Valley. They sell the HTC fence and have a fairly good description. See site ...
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=2&page=47305&category=1,41080
The micro-adjust feature and removable fence plates seem like good features and are the reasons I am considering purchasing the HTC rather than the Biesemeyer. I am hoping to hear from more HTC users on this forum. Even possibly a reference to a review, too.
Good Luck,
MBlue
Just to throw another one into the pot, take a look at MuleCab's Accusquare fence. There were two threads a couple of months ago in which several, many actually, Craftsman saw owners gave it a thumbs-up for their upgrades. If you want to see those threads, let me know and I'll find 'em for you.
http://www.mulecab.com
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Sure, if you know what you're looking for you'll most likely find them easier than I would ;)
I wouldn't mind seeing threads on most any of the available options, but me being me, i.e 6'5" and probably what would be best described as 'husky', I have an occasional tendency to mimic a bull in a china shop ;) The pictures of the MuleCab Accusqare fence doesn't look like it's quite as bullet proof as the Biesemeyer clones. Speaking of which, whats that doohickey on the side of the Vega fence? Found their website, but haven't seen a good description of what that thingy is yet.
Still really liking the Biesey or an HTC the best so far on just a 'gut' level. Anything would be an improvement right now, as the current fence is very loose and has to be measured front and back *every* time to be even close to parallel w/ the blade. Otherwise it can be 1/4" or more out of parallel :( I just like the idea of simple, bullet-proof, and repeatable every time, for *years*. HTC's haven't been out long enough really for the jury to be in on them, have they? Vega's, I don't think I've talked to anyone who had one who didn't like them, even if they went w/ something else later. Biesemeyer seems to be the gold standard, even if they aren't as high-tech. Anyone used (a lot, as in regularly/day-in, day-out) a Biesemeyer fence and then an Accusqare, and prefer the MuleCab? Why?
TIA,
Monte
Hi Monte, I found the thread. Based on reputation and reports here, it seems you can't go wrong with the Beisemeyer. Another saw and a few more bucks, and I'd be plotting to get it myself! Here's the main link on the Accusquare:http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=11507.1
Double-check their web site, but I think they offer a no-questions-asked 30-day guarantee. I suspect the fence is more solid than it looks in pictures. I saw a stubby version at Rockler the other day, like an abbreviated demo, and it felt real good. I liked it better than the Vega.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Monte
Don't know what your looking at, but if the doohicky is at the round rail, it's the micro
adjust. If its on the side of the fence, it's probably the pusher they make as an
accessory. (tho it might be the hold down fixture.)
Jeff
Hope this URL comes thru:
http://www.vegawoodworking.com/c25sm.jpg
http://www.vegawoodworking.com/c26sm.jpg
The gizmo I'm talking about is the dog-leg looking thing on the left side of the fence bar.
Thanks,
Monte
Monte, that's their pusher. You use it to push stock instead of using a push stick. Keeps your hand on the fence and away from the blade. Also has a one-inch stop block that swings down to use when you're cutting with the miter gauge -- takes the place of clamping a stop block to the fence.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 6/18/2003 12:02:36 AM ET by forestgirl
Do you (or anyone else reading this) have a better picture(s), i.e. close-ups, different angles, etc. of this fence? The main image on the saw fences page won't load on my browsers. I snagged those two images from their 'Saw Accessories' page.
I guess I'll try seeing if I can email Vega and get them to cough up some alternate angle pictures as well.
Thanks,
Monte
Not very good pictures, are they. Click here for an enlarged picture at Amazon. I'll see if I can get a copy of the Vega site pictures for you.
[Naaah, their web site sucks. Pictures came up but took forever and didn't show much anyway] I have a good description of that pusher in my Ballew catalog. If you have questions, drop me a line, I'll see if the explanation helps.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 6/18/2003 1:13:03 AM ET by forestgirl
Monte
That's the push stick attachment.
Jeff
With a small investment in $150 and some scrounging you can get a great fence setup by scooping up a Rockwell Contractor fence (formerly the Unisaw fence before it went to Biesmeier). I've rehabed two saws. One for home one up north. By picking up the front rail (tube with geared advance teeth) some standoffs, a section of 1-1/4 inch galv pipe for the rear fence rail and a used fence from the local rockwell dealer in town. He has plenty of orphan parts available. The first saw (a 10" craftsman from 80's) I got the fence from a buddy that went Vega.
Funny thing is the pipe hardens up the wings on the Sears & old rockwell saws. That stamped steel wing stuff is pretty shakey if you start flopping around 4x6's and sheets of 3/4 inch cdx. With the new pipes front & rear I feel the saw is reborn and I have money to buy other stupid stuff. Consider it.
Hello Booch,
I bought a set of rails & fence from a rockwell saw to put on my sears contractor saw. I bought the screws and spacers from delta. They should have been gold plated for what they charged. I need to drill holes in my TS. How much clearance does the fence need on the table? Where do I drill the holes? I don't want to have either too much or not enough clearance for the fence.
thanks for the info,
Chuck
I used the existing Sears holes for at least two of the mountings for the front rail. Then I used an appropriate sized metal bit and drilled thru the cast Iron and steel wings. The front rail is essential for the operation. The back rail can be standard 1-1/4 inch galvanized pipe drilled to fit. If you bought that one you could return it and save 1/3 the cost of the operation.
The left right is easy and you ought to face the fence with UHMW or a maple block for ease of use. (edit I actually used a 2 inch thick maple fence face to make the numbers line up with the fence indicator. It allows you to kiss the fence with the blade for planer cuts on straightening boards too) The front of the fence will be higher than the table. You'll need to take a flat bastard or a grinder and shine the casting down a bit. That way you have no interference with the tables operation.
PS on the galvanizing. The hot dip on the galv pipe is a bit rough. Take some 100+ grit sandpaper and level off the ridges of galvanizing (zinc) by handsanding the tube. You can sand it after it is installed.
After you are done this will be a rigid puppy!
Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
Edited 6/20/2003 10:31:56 AM ET by Booch
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