Replies

1. 
   TomT226 | Apr 13, 2005 02:07pm | #1

   If I understand you correctly, you're having a "chip out" problem with some kind of laminate like melimine.  This may be caused by using the wrong saw blade in your table saw.  Get a good dedicated laminate/veneer blade of 80T to make your cuts with.

   Or, make your cuts about 1/16" (3mm) oversize with your existing blade, clamp a straight piece of wood or MDF paralell to your cut on the line, and use a flush trim bit in your router to clean up the "chip out."

2. 
   MarkRD | Apr 13, 2005 03:09pm | #2

   If you do use the router, your approach sounds fine.
   Cut it "close" with the saw then use the router against a good straight edge and take off the remaining stock.

   Of course, in a perfect world the new saw blade is the way to go...

   This is one of the reasons I love woodworking, half the fun is trying to solve interesting problems...

   Mark

   let us know how it turns out.

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

1. 
   eulaersi | Apr 13, 2005 04:17pm | #3

   I've recently bought a 64 tooth blade to cut laminated plywood. But I still had the chip out on the bottom side of my table saw.

   More professional workers use a table saw with a "scribing blade". But as a hobby person I have a simple saw of Elektra Beckum and the wife doesn't allow me to upgrade :-) (see http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=113553&Referrer=Kelkoo for details on the saw).

   Thanks for all your help. This is a wonderful forum for a newbie.

   Ivan

    

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 13, 2005 06:47pm | #4

   There are a couple of things you can do to help prevent the tear-out on the bottom of the stock (beyond getting a good blade).  The most important is to make a zero-clearance insert for your table saw, one that fits snug to the blade and supports the stock completely all the way up to the blade.  The other is to run tape (blue painters tape works well) along the future cut line.

   If you're not familiar with zero-clearance inserts, you create your own by making a "blank" that's exactly the same as your stock insert.  Put it in place on the saw (with the saw blade down inside), slide your fence over to clamp it down, but clear of where the blade will come up through the blank.  Turn the saw on and slowly raise the blade through the insert.  You can make a separate one for different dado widths, etc.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   eulaersi | Apr 13, 2005 09:27pm | #5

   What do you mean by "a good blade"? The sales person assured me that this 64 tooth blade was one of the finest?Do I have to look for a 80 tooth blade or a different sales person?Ivan

1. 
   MarkRD | Apr 13, 2005 11:14pm | #6

   Certain blades are designed for laminates or light weight ply/veneers.You can see some (though quite expensive) at http://www.forrest.com.Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

2. 
   forestgirl | Apr 14, 2005 07:38pm | #7

   Hi, Ivan, sorry I'm late replying to your post.  The blade you have is probably a "good" blade (please post the brand and model# just for our info).  The fact that you're getting chip-out primarily on the bottom surface is what leads me to recommend a zero-clearance insert for your saw.

   The ideal double-laminate blade would have a negative hook angle and a TCG (triple chip grind) tooth design so as to shear the material cleanly and to last longer with these very abrasive man-made materials.  Whether you want to spend the money for a dedicated laminate blade would depend on how much you'd be using it, right?  I've made cuts in 3/4" melamine (a little more than 18mm) with a generic plywood blade in a hand-held circular saw and, by using the tape-over-the-cut-line method, gotten nearly chip-free results.

   It's very difficult to avoid chip-out on the bottom using a table saw if you don't have complete support for the cut (again, the zero-clearance insert).  If you need help with making one, let us know!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   eulaersi | Apr 14, 2005 10:33pm | #8

   Thanks for the reply. This weekend, I'll take a look at the model of my blade and my saw to check if such an insert would be possible. I'll keep you posted.

4. 
   Steinmetz | Apr 15, 2005 12:36am | #9

   Ivan, jusr set up your saw table for the finish cut ... BUT, use a sheet of ply UNDER the cut line to act as a sacrificial lamb and press down as you feed both the panel and ply through the cut.
   If you don't have a wide enough plywood sheet, just tape a couple of strips of the same thickness ply to the panel
   (Pointing ahead and Under the cut line.) to keep the 'Sandwich' level and parallel to the table top.
   Steinmetz.

   Edited 4/14/2005 5:38 pm ET by steinmetz