Replies

1. 
   dtraversi | Aug 07, 2007 07:37pm | #1

   Hey Hoosier-

   There would be a big difference between a saw owned by a hobbyist and one used in a commercial setting. (obviously)

   I'd bring my own blade- ask to rip a few passes of some 8/4 hardwood scrap (even a 2x4) if that's all you got laying around) - If it sails right through and passes the eyeball test- I'd offer $500 and be willing to go up from there.

   I have a unisaw that I purchased in 1995- I'm a hobbyist- I give it a good work out but it still looks and operates like it was purchased yesterday- I'd be "slightly offended" if you offered me $500 for mine... but I'd smile and counter offer if I thought you had more in your pocket :-)

   Hope you get a great deal

   Dave

   Settle Down People... Settle Down
1. 
   EdHarrow | Aug 07, 2007 08:02pm | #2

   I sold my Delta ontractor saw, of similar vintage, with a Unifence, for about that.  Do some research on Ebay - I think, depending upon condition, you're looking at something closer to a G note.

2. 
   Knotscott | Aug 07, 2007 11:11pm | #3

   Alot depends on the condition, the features, and any accessories included. A good rule of thumb is ~ 50% of new. If it's mint, has cast iron wings, mobile base, includes good blades/dado, extra inserts, upgraded miter gauge, and/or a router table or extension, then it would be worth a bit more.

   A new Biese fence is in excess of $350. A new Uni w/Biese runs in the $1500-$1800 range. If it's a 3hp single phase in nice shape, IMHO it could easily be worth $750-$1200 depending.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/7/2007 4:14 pm ET by Knotscott

3. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Aug 08, 2007 07:01pm | #4

   Morning Hoosier...

   The going price on used at Redmond & Son machinery on used ranges from $700 - $900 depending on condition, type of fence (Biese, etc.), motor (3 HP r 5 HP) and length of fence. A Delta factory re-conditioned runs around $1295 for 3 HP 50" Biesemeyer fence plus shipping.

   Check everything... running gear.. slot parallel to blade.. table flatness.. and have a look at the motor as one that is caked in dust may indicate heavy use or little maintenance.

   And the most important Key to a Uni-saw IMO is be Sure to check the Trunnions. They are multiple part on a Unisaw and there-fore somewhat fragile if thrown around in shipping and the saw is subjected to heavy jolts. That is the main reason that so many re-conditioned Uni's are available.

   In this case they should (?) be fine as he most likely has had it in a fixed position beyond the point of any major moving. Once the saw is in place the trunnions are not in jeopardy of heavy jolts. And remember that if you purchase it and pick it up. Be careful loading and un-loading at your shop.

   I would offer $550 and go up as someone said to no higher than $850 if in excellent condition as they are not a rare breed used. I got my Uni factory re-conditioned for $999 as I had done some favors for Redmond at the Atlanta WW Show and I was also purchasing a new Steel City jointer the same day. I was going to purchase the Steel City saw.. but they made me a deal I couldn't refuse.

   Good luck with your decision....

   Regards...

   Sarge.. john thompson

   
1. 
   woodenhead | Aug 08, 2007 11:12pm | #5

   How effective is that dust collector on your saw from Penn. I was thinking of purchasing the complete system. I have a Grizzly 2hp canister which does a good, but there is always a little dust up front. It looks like you fabricated yours,and just purchased the plastic guard.

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Aug 09, 2007 08:10am | #6

   Morning Woodenhead...

   "How effective is that dust collector on your saw from Penn. I was thinking of purchasing the complete system. I have a Grizzly 2hp canister which does a good, but there is always a little dust up front. It looks like you fabricated yours,and just purchased the plastic guard".

   *****************************************************

   When I first purchased the factory re-co Uni-saw, I was amazed just how much saw-dust was "spewed out every opening" on the saw. And "spewed" is not an exaggeration as my body front and dust mask would be caked in saw-dust.. the floor was littered with it both front and rear and the table-top was under a film of dust and chips. Delta left much to be desired with on-board dust collection. The saw just shot it out every nook, cranny and opening and there are a lot of nooks, crannies and opening.

   The first thing I did was go to Lowe's and buy a roll of self-adhesive camper trailer insulation and sealer tape. Every opening down to as small as bolt holes got sealed. Next.. I got a Lee-craft zero insert and installed it ( I did file the zero blade slot to an extra 2mm on each side to avoid possible tooth snag on the plate and cut down the clanging sound caused by not enough clearance and arbor run-out).

   Then I opened the rear dust chute to 6" for a direct hook-up with my Penn State cyclone to eliminate any cfm loss with a reduction at machine. I have 6" diameter direct hook-up from cyclone to the machine.

   This got rid of the "spewing" and about 85% of the dust. But.. there was still dust coming front the front cutting teeth that covered the table top to some degree. This is when I decided to rig the over-head port connected directly to a 6 HP Shop Vac to the saw.

   I did purchase the Penn State dust shroud (as it has a 2 1/2" port) and modified the rather square design to become both a dust collector and a forward shield attached to my home-made "crown guard" and splitter. It rides up by putting a small radius on the bottome as stock is passed under-neath and catchs dust in the same same efficient stroke.

   The results are a fresh breath of air when using the saw for ripping as I do almost exclusively. What does escape the hood and shoot forward ends up on top of the stock in front of the blade. But.. the hood port gets as second chance as the stock is moved forward along the fence into the teeth for the sever. That saw-dust riding on top is subjected slowly to the 2 1/2" port on the re-bound and "got-cha" is the result!

   An estimated guess at this point is around 97% gets trapped. From what I originally had with just the 4" port to what I have now.. you might say "we've come a long way at the Sarge shop,  baby"! ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..

   Regards...

   Sarge.. john thompson

    

   Edited 8/9/2007 1:13 am ET by SARGEgrinder47

   
1. 
   woodenhead | Aug 09, 2007 04:36pm | #7

   Thanks for the information , could you use the Penn State system instead of the shop vac. or is the way you have it more efficient? I would like to have my 2hp collector do the job at both ends do you think that would work. And i do like your fether board system.

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Aug 09, 2007 05:36pm | #8

   Morning WH...

   No reason to not use the 2 HP unit you have Y'ed with a 2 1/2" hose going to the Penn State over-head. The reason I used the 6" direct with a separate 6 HP SV is that I had them on hand with all that capability to maintain maximum cfm. No reason to not do what I did!

   Once you Y your current set-up and then you if you feel that you could improve it's performance by adding a dedicated vac to the 2 1/2" over-head, you could add it at any point by a simple re-route of hose and eliminating the Y connector. Options are only limited by your imagination and willingness to explore them.

   The feather-board is called a "spring-board". Simple and quick to make with a piece of scrap ply. I have been using them for years on my router table and TS. I prefer them over a feather-board as I personally like the way they distribute pressure to the stock being held.

   Regards...

   Sarge.. john thompson

   
2. 
   woodenhead | Aug 12, 2007 07:04am | #10

   Thanks again, I am going to make a couple of your spring boards.

3. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Aug 12, 2007 08:00am | #11

   Morning WH...

   Thanks again, I am going to make a couple of your spring boards.. wh

   **********

   You're quite welcome, sir... and I'm going to bed. ha.. ha...

   BTW.. you want even break a sweat building one, but if you have any questions e-mail or post! I think you will really like them.

   Regards...

   Sarge.. jt

    

4. 
   dlb | Aug 10, 2007 05:00am | #9

   Try owwm.com (Old Wood Working Machinery) and poke around the classified section.

   dlb

   .

    

   The undisciplined life is not worth examining.