Replies

1. 
   lwilliams | May 17, 2003 03:42am | #1

   The vinyl infeed and outfeed rollers on these degrade over time and need replacement. They're expensive from Makita, about $200 each. You can have them recovered for a lot less, I can't remember the prices I've seen quoted but they may have been in the $80 range for each roller. Most larger cities have companies that do this for the printing industry. Check the rollers, if they're cracked up or feel like they have a sticky coating you'll have to replace them.

   I've had a 2040 for 23 years. During that time we've had other planers, a couple (Delta and Grizzly) were 20". The only one in the shop now is the Makita and I think it's one of the best planers ever offered. It's not a high volume machine and if you're running a commercial cabinet shop you might want to look for something else. What it will do is give a finish that you'll have a hard time beating with any other rotary head planer.

   I don't know what the going price for a 2040 is but I wouldn't sell mine for $500.

2. 
   dlwheel | May 17, 2003 08:55am | #2

   Jeff,

   i have a 2030 (12" planer/6" jointer) that i bought new in 1980). i've not used any other since... but from what i've seen of the latest delta's, makita's, dewalt's... they are not in the same class. These are HEAVY planers that leave a very nice surface. After 20 years the very small belt that turns the rollers broke.

    I thought i was screwed... but went to Ace and got some soft black "O" ring type things for $2. I figured it would NEVER work! Been working fine for the last 3 months. In the mean time i found a company in Canada that carries them for $9; and bought two... but have yet to put one on.

   I'd buy the planer for $500 in a heartbeat... even if i had to replace the rollers.

1. 
   MStehelin | Jun 02, 2003 07:28pm | #26

   Please give me the name of the company that sells the drive belts! I had to buy one from the local supplier and it cost me $50!

   Thanks

   M stehelin

1. 
   dlwheel | Jun 02, 2003 08:42pm | #27

   http://www.acetoolrepair.com/index.htm

   Cost was something like $10 each.

3. 
   jc21 | May 17, 2003 06:51pm | #3

   If it's in decent shape or maybe even if it's not, jump on it! It's a great machine and I regret the day I sold mine.  It currently runs about $2300.00 new if you can find one. http://www.toolsforless.com/cgi-bin/ToolBig.pl?SKU=2040 It produces a nice finish and is very reliable. There was a two speed feed kit available- nice but not necessary. The 2040's downside is that it's loud (it uses a universal motor) and the parts are to me, a bit pricey (the rollers in particular) and dust collection might be an issue. The website linked above also has some parts prices.  I believe Freud and Jesada carry knives for it that are much less expensive than factory.If you don't have the need for a real production planer, go for it.

   
   

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   Edited 5/17/2003 12:42:45 PM ET by jc
   

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   Edited 5/17/2003 12:48:25 PM ET by jc

   
   

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   Edited 5/17/2003 1:58:33 PM ET by jc

1. 
   Jeff | May 19, 2003 05:12pm | #4

   Larry, DL, & JC

   Bought the planer for $300.00

   In pretty good shape over all, needs some clean-up.

   I see it needs new rollers, some top adjusting screws (heads are

   chewed up a bit), and probably a new set of blades.

   No alignmrment parts came with it (how necessary are they?)

   Cut is ok, but not any better then my Dewalt portable.

   Any suggestions on the following:

   Best source for parts (If any available other then Makita)?

   Where to get good rollers?

   How to clean up cut and make it as good as possible?

   Is the speed kit worth getting and from where?

   Any suggestions on dust collection?

   Finally, what is the lever (knob) on top used for?

   Jeff

1. 
   lwilliams | May 20, 2003 12:47am | #5

   Jeff,

   Look in the phone book under urethane or rubber. You should find someone who does this. Here's a place in New Hampshire, not too far from you: http://www.precisionroll.com/Products_Services/

   The alignment tools are just straight pieces of wood about 4" long. It's no problem to make them. I made a spanner to adjust the roller tension by grinding down a spade bit I use in a brace.

   Did you get the manual? If not, I can scan it and send it to you. Adjustment of the rollers can be tricky and you'll have to tinker with it to get it right. The original Makita blades are a lot better than the after market blades. They're kind of pricey but worth the money, IMO.

1. 
   Jeff | May 20, 2003 02:55am | #6

   Larry

   I got the manual with it, but thank you (It's not very thorough).

   I have a spare set of blades with it, I'll try them first.

   I'll contact the NH company about the rollers and let you know what

   they say.

   I still need to take the top apart and find out if the adjustment screws are usable or will need replacing (probably an expensive part

   knowing Makita.)

   Any idea what the knob on top is for, I'm just reading manual tonight.

   Also, any great ideas on dust collection?

   Jeff

1. 
   lwilliams | May 20, 2003 03:17am | #7

   Jeff,

   I made a dust collection attachment out of just plain 4" round galvanized sheet metal duct. I used a 4" PVC cap on one end. I'd take a photo and post it but things here are a little unusual. I'm just out of a cast after arm/elbow surgery and in a brace, my darling 16 year-old daughter totaled my truck a couple weeks ago--just got the settlement money and am trying to search out another truck. Because of my current limitations, I'm teaching part-time in a local high school woodworking program while trying to do what I can in my regular business. Since the end of last January, my left arm hasn't been any use at all. My wife has three jobs at the minute, changing over from two part-time jobs to a full-time job and my daughter also has a job. That's six different places one of us has to appear most days and we have only one car 'til Wednesday morning. Squeezing in an extra trip to the shop just isn't going to happen.

   In the parts break down, the roller support/adjustment system looks a lot more complicated than it is. Taking it apart and having a look at how it works will be very helpful in getting it adjusted. I doubt any parts will be a problem unless the former owner messed something up while trying to take it apart.

   One of the things I did to my planer was install a feed speed reduction gear way back when I bought it. It's just a drive sprocket for the chain with less teeth. I don't remember how many fewer teeth but a few and enough that the chain tension spring had to be relocated. This speed reduction is one of the reasons for a great finish but I knew others who did just fine without it.

   The knob, sort of a lever looking deal really, is to lock the cutter head in place so you can set the knives off the machined surfaces on the head housing.

   Edited 5/19/2003 9:45:41 PM ET by Larry Williams

2. 
   Jeff | May 28, 2003 03:12am | #10

   Larry

   I've been playing with the planer a little.

   I found a place to send the rollers to for refinishing for $80.00 ea.

   A few things have me wondering:

   I figured the head lock out, doesn't work. I'll have to take it apart

   and see why not.

   From the looks of the book, removing the feed rollers should be just

   removing the screw from below. Do you know if the springs are gonna

   pop, or are they captive?

   You mentioned adjusting the rollers. Are the spring tension (mentioned above) easy to adjust and how much pressure?

   The adjustment screw on top seems to be the outer screw (I didn't

   loosen or touch it yet). I think Makita expects you to adjust it with a screwdriver, seems to be a good way to ruin the slots.

   Is the inner screw adjustable at all? or just a way to turn it to align the roller supports? These slots are pretty mashed up and will

   require cleaning up on my unit.

   Any good thoughts on how to adjust them?

   There were 2 metal keys (Kind of a t shaped piece of metal) any idea

   what their for. Don't seem to fit anything I can see.

   Last are the pressure bar and chipbreaker. One is higher then the

   blade and doesn't seem to touch anything (Infeed side, I think it's

   the chipbreaker) and the other is slightly lower then the blade

   (outfeed side, I think is the pressure bar). Don't seem to be adjustable, or doing much. Maybe outfeed bar is catching the wood slightly, But I'm not sure yet.

   If they are adjustable, any idea how they should be set. Nothing in

   the book on them and drawing looks like their just screwed in with no adjustments.

   A typical manual with only about half the info needed.

   I'll probably try to order the slow gears if still available and new

   Roller support posts if I can't clean them up.

   I hope to spend try and dismantle the unit and fix things this weekend (maybe sooner if I have a few spare minutes).

   Looks like a nice unit overall. Little rust, paint mostly intact.

   All the labels peeling off or gone.

   It will plane wood, with a little help starting. But the rollers are so worn, it's hard to see the full potential yet.

   Talk to you soon.

   If you have a moment and don't mind me calling you, email me your

   phone number and best time to catch you at: [email protected]

   Jeff

3. 
   lwilliams | May 28, 2003 05:09am | #11

   Jeff,

   We have two shops and the planer is in the other shop--kind of a sore point with me at times but it is more efficient that way.

   I really need to do some tuning on the planer and haven't done it in a few years. After I mess with it, it takes a little fiddling to get it all running right but I don't do it often enough to have it be second nature or to always remember everything. I can bring the manual here and that would refresh everything enough that I might be of some help.

   My cell phone has free long distance on weekends and I could call you or you can reach me at (479) 253-7416. Because I'm currently one-armed so I'm teaching part-time at a small local private high school. I'll be there most of tomorrow during the day building bird houses with middle school kids. If we don't get 'em finished, I'll also be there part of Thursday. I'll be out of town part of Friday but don't know when I'll leave or when I'll get back. Friday will have to be on my wife's schedule which is always chaos.

   Evenings are good except when I walk the dog for about an hour some time around 6:30 central time. I don't mind calling you on the weekend if it'll save you money and be easier.

4. 
   Jeff | May 28, 2003 01:25pm | #12

   Larry

   I'm eastern time here, I think 1 hr differance.

   I'll try to call you tonight after you walk the dog.

   Weekends are ok with me also. I work from home, so unless I'm

   running around, I;m pretty easy to catch mornings, late day and

   evenings any day.

   I train Search and Rescue dogs part time so that is the only time

   I might be away for a few days when called for a search. Trouble

   with that is I only know about an hour before I go. Makes it hard

   to plan sometimes. Been very quiet since 9/11.

   I know about chaos, my wife invented the word.

   If I don't catch you, try me at 802-824-5511.

   Jeff

2. 
   jackiechan | May 30, 2003 05:21am | #14

   Larry,

   I saw this post a few days ago, and out of sheer coincidence, I was given this exact machine (2040) by a friend today!  The only two things missing are the depth pin and the manual.  Would it be possible to scan your 2040 manual and e-mail it to me?

   The unit needs a little revitalization work (some surface rust, lubrication of all moving parts, alignments/adjustments, new paint, etc...) - the rollers will be pulled tomorrow and sent off to Precision Roller.  (Good recommendation). 

   Thank you in advance for any assistance you may be able to offer. Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

1. 
   jc21 | May 30, 2003 05:32am | #15

   Hope this helps ........................... http://www.makita.com/res_tools/pdf/noncurrent_owners/2040.pdf

2. 
   jackiechan | May 30, 2003 06:51am | #17

   JC,

   That's exactly what I was looking for - much thanks.Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

3. 
   Jeff | May 30, 2003 02:33pm | #19

   Dan

   Check the Makita web site, they have the manual and parts list available.

   I understand from everyone this is a great machine.

   Good luck.

   Oh, how did you get the screws out, mine are real stuck.

   Jeff

4. 
   jackiechan | May 31, 2003 05:59am | #22

   Jeff,

   Thanks for the info'.  I was able to remove all of the screws from my machine.  The person that owned the machine before me, was very diligent with the proper care of his tools, so all of the screw heads were intact and not stripped.

   Here's a trick that's worked for me in the past with stuck metal on metal screws/bolts.  If you have a hammer drill, load a 2" - 3" piece of 3/8" steel rod in to the chuck. Carefully place the flat end of the rod onto the very top of the screw head and pull the trigger.  The object is to send a metallic vibration through the screw to help break it free.  Use a light touch with the drill, place a few drops of Liquid Wrench around the head (wait a minute for it to sink in), and then try a ratcheting driver to back it out.

   Let me know how it works out, and if you have any additional questions!Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

5. 
   Jeff | May 31, 2003 03:20pm | #23

   Dan

   I've freed up the screws using my impact driver.

   I'll need to replace the screws with good quality cap head screws

   (unfortunitly, I'll need to mail order them as no one here in Vermont

   stocks them.)

   Hopefully, I'll get the planer taken apart this weekend and make up an order for parts from Makita.

   Over all, things don't actually look to bad.

   I still haven't tackled the large roller adjustment screws. I first

   need to make a stronger spanner wrench then the one I have and then

   break the locktight loose.

   Hopefully, my heatgun will be able to do the job.

   Also need to figure out how to get the old paint and stain off without ruining the Makita finish.

   I was surprised to find almost no rust.

   But the previous owner didn't take good care of the machine and I need to polish the metal rollers and bed to get scratches out.

   Talk to you soon.

   Jeff

6. 
   JohnWW | May 31, 2003 11:33pm | #24

   Most Aubuchon Hardware Stores have excellent selections of specialty hardware and there are a number of them in Vermont.  The two I'm familiar with are in Rutland and Randolph.  The Rutland store has hundreds of drawers of specialty nuts and bolts.  Many auto stores have high strength nuts and bolts in metric and inch sizes.

   John

7. 
   Jeff | Jun 01, 2003 03:26am | #25

   John

   Randolph is a long way.

   I get to Rutland often, but didn't know there was a Aubichon Hdwr

   store there.

   I have some of what I need here , as I use metric often enough.

   I can easily order some more from one of my suppliers if I don't get

   to Rutland.

   I'll have to wait for the Makita parts anyway.

   So far all is going well with the disassembly, I seem to be able to salvage most everything or should be able to clean them up.

   I'm trying not to ruin the paint while removing the stains and paint

   the previous owner got on it.

   The only thing left before polishing and cleaning is getting the

   locktited adjusting screws out.

   I hope I'll have some time tomarrow to start on them.

   You sound like you know Vermont, if you live up here let me know if

   you'd like to get together.

   Jeff

2. 
   SVSander | Jun 02, 2003 10:58pm | #28

   Jeff,

   I posted a tip about dust collection for the Makita 2040 a while back - it works very well. Check out this message:

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=9671.1

   Dick Baker

   Sunnyvale, CA

1. 
   Jeff | Jun 04, 2003 02:23am | #29

   Looksw great.

   Thanks.

   Jeff

4. 
   jc21 | May 20, 2003 04:56am | #8

   Not much to add to what Larry said.  Here's a link to some schematics ........ http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/makita/2040 I had three sets of knives for mine, 2 HSS and 1 carbide.  The carbide knives did last longer but the quality of the finish wasn't as good imho. I left attached the wooden skids the planer came on and mounted some locking casters....... it worked pretty well for moving the planer around.  

   
   

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   Edited 5/19/2003 10:27:09 PM ET by jc

   
   

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   Edited 5/19/2003 10:30:38 PM ET by jc

1. 
   Jeff | May 20, 2003 03:02pm | #9

   Larry and JC

   I had a chance to look at the book last night.

   Seems straight forward and will have a closer hands on clean-up session in a few days here.

   I'll get back to you for more info later and to let you know where I am.

   I understand about how life is, my wife spent October - March in and out of the hospital.

   Between that and now getting her back on her feet, I'm so far behind

   on things, I'll probably neer catch up.

   Thanks for all the help.

   Jeff

5. 
   Jeff | May 29, 2003 05:51pm | #13

   RJT

   Yes, that the same company I found.

   They advertise in Woodshop news.

   I've just started dismantling the Planer, so I haven't sent out the

   rollers yet.

   I'm still fighting with getting the screws loose.

   All frozen or chewed up.

   I spoke to Makita this morning and they say I can get most any part

   I need to fix the unit.

   Greg at Makita told me I stole the unit at $400 as it listed for

   $3500 new a few years ago. Also told me how he gets things freed up

   and how to adjust it.

   I spoke with Larry last night and he gave me some great advice.

   Will let you know how things go.

   Jeff

1. 
   notDusty | May 30, 2003 07:17am | #18

           Jeff ,       When you replace the rollers make sure and also replace the aluminum pillow blocks the rollers ends ride in. They are several bucks each x 4 . It can prevent the shaft shearing when they wear out and they do .  I use an impact driver with the correct phillips bit to loosen the screws under the rollers .                       good luck

1. 
   Jeff | May 30, 2003 02:46pm | #21

   Dusty

   I'm building a parts list for Makita, I'll add the bearings in.

   Thanks for that advice.

   I've just dug out my impact driver also, but don't know if it will

   fit in the area I'm working in.

   Makita Tech said to use a vise-grip and just replace the screws after.

   I also couldn't move the roller adjustment and he told me that the

   factory uses locktight on it (older series, not newer with knob).

   He said I might need to take a screw extractor to it and replace it

   with the new style if I can't free it up. Taht's waht he does.

   The fellow who owned the unit before me mashed up all the screw heads

   trying to adjust them, but never did. Everything is out of

   adjustment.

   Any other suggestions, please let me know.

   Thanks for the help.

   Jeff

6. 
   jc21 | May 30, 2003 06:05am | #16

   I always thought Makita had great stationary equipment and regret the day I sold my 2040. Bought mine in '86 as part of a package deal, the other part being an 8" jointer (stand alone) ............ the only one like it I've seen from Makita.

7. 
   Jeff | May 30, 2003 02:38pm | #20

   RJT

   The rollers on my unit are shot.

   I'm still trying to break the bolts loose to get them out for recovering.

   Over all the machine is looking good.

   Mostly minor work, tho I will replace all the chewed up screws with

   either a new factory one (special part) or a real quality cap screw

   for the phillips head screws.

   My wife attended UVM in Burlington, beautiful area, about 2-3 hrs north of me.

   Jeff

8. 
   jdc410 | Feb 20, 2017 02:17pm | #30

   Hi All,

   I just picked up a Makita 2030 this weekend that needs some attention before it get put back into service..

   The biggest issue is the motor and housing that doesnt exist...at least on this machine.

   Can someone please see if there is a tag that states the Rpm, HP, frame size... Anything on the tag is there is one would be great..

   Thanks

   Jeff