Replies

1. 
   Routerman | Oct 04, 2005 05:40am | #1

   Vee groove cutter can chamfer like a 45 bevel. Control may be a problem but not the cutting action of the tool.

    

   Routers

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 04, 2005 05:54am | #2

   Thanks Pat, I was hoping you'd pitch in on this one.  I'm going to try Lee Valley's pinless circle-cutting center.  It's hard making that V-groove match up with a pre-existing chamfer, but I have to admit to being a bit concerned about controlling the router and making a nice smooth edge all the way around.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Patto | Oct 04, 2005 10:07am | #3

   Hi Jamie,

   Circle cutting jig as a replacement baseplate to your router and pivoted on a little 'T' pin secured unsidedown with double sided tape to the work.

   The only really hard part to this (as I think Pat is alluding to) is control. It might be easier to rough the circle on a bandsaw and do the edge (1/2" straight bit) at one radius, then reduce the radius appropriately for the 'V' bit without moving the pin. Detail the handle after the main part of the platter is established.

   Regards

   David

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 04, 2005 08:02pm | #4

   Hi David.  I'm assuming that by "control" you and Pat are referring to the possibility the router might not move around the circle in a smooth, consistent fashion??  Fortunately, it's a pretty shallow chamfer/groove so it should be pretty easy.  Can't afford to be messing up the glued-up stock, for sure.

   If I use a straight bit that's smaller in diameter than the V-groove bit, it could be set up so that the radius wouldn't even need to change, no??   I haven't ordered the grooving bit yet, so ......     The poplar pretty easy to work.  I think I used a 1/4" or 3/8" piloted bit for this sample (template routing).

    forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   charlesm | Oct 04, 2005 08:43pm | #5

   Jamie,If I understand the application correctly you will not be able to use the exact setup for both the groove/bevel and the straight bit to cut it out. The tip of the V-groove bit will define the cut line to cut them out. Thus the straight bit would have to be 0.00" diameter. You will have to increase the radius of the circle jig to accommodate half the diameter of the straight bit.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

2. 
   Patto | Oct 05, 2005 01:08am | #6

   Jamie,

   Charles (below) has the gist. There is a circle cutting guide you can make from ply or perspex that comprises a subbase for the router and an arm with holes drilled for the various diamteres you might have to cut. These holes drop over a locating pin that can either be a nail in the work (if marking the surface is OK) or some other pivot point. Really fancy ones of these crank the arm to provide clearance for the whatever is attaching the pivot, but if you make it from ply then build up the sub-base by the thickness of the pivot point support. (sorry I dont have a picture, but this shouldnt take more than 1/2 an hour to make)

   Assume that the bottom of the V (centre of the grooving bit) describes a circle of say 8" radius. If you are going to trim the sides with a 1/2" straight bit, the radius for the dressing cut would need to be 8 1/4" from the same centrepoint.

   Note, I haven't done this with a router, but it is sort of the same principle as turning small spoons on a lathe a'la Richard Raffan.

   david

3. 
   forestgirl | Oct 05, 2005 10:07am | #7

   Given my lack of spatial capabilities, I'm probably going to have to mount the bits to figure this out, but my brain keeps envisioning this:

   a disc cut out using, say, a 1/4" straight bit

   thenceforth installing a v-groove bit that's, say, 1/2" D, 1/2" cutting height; not changing the radius of the circle-cutting jig

   lowering said v-groove bit such that the angle would bite into the wood the appropriate amount.  When the point of the V bit is just at the top level of the disc, it would be outside it's perimeter, but as it's lowered, the anged sides approach the disc, touch it, then would cut into it, no?

   Sorry I'm taking up all this time with mental gymnastics.  Spent the evening trying to figure something weird going on with the bandsaw.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

4. 
   charlesm | Oct 05, 2005 02:58pm | #8

   Jamie,What you just described will allow you to chamfer the edge after you cut the shape out with the straight bit but will not leave you with a way to make the V-groove that you need at the handle.Charles M
   Freud America, Inc.

   Edited 10/5/2005 9:58 am ET by CharlesM

5. 
   forestgirl | Oct 05, 2005 08:08pm | #9

   Bless you Charles, you are so patient!  Got it now, thank you!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)