Replies

1. 
   Floss | Jan 18, 2007 11:37pm | #1

   Lataxe,

   If you want to stick with tradition then just light the end of the beaumontage and drip it into the place you want filled. Then you can level with a sharp chisel when hard. Of course this is traditional and not the way I do it.

   I use a hot knife with different tips to heat small bits then fill the holes,cracks or whatever and level with the same tool.

   I also use burn in balm around the spot to help remove excess beaumontage.

   Also a small piece of cloth wrapped around a flat piece of wood and dipped into lacquer thinner helps to finish levelling smooth the repair.

   Typically I wipe the burn in balm around the repair area. Then use the knife to burn in the beaumontage. Then I will use a sharp chisel to get the repair mostly level, then use the burn in knife to smooth and level the repair. Finally I use the cloth wrapped wood and lacquer thinner to smooth the area and fully blend the repair.

   I am sure there are lots of other ways to do it, but this is how I am comfortable using the material and the repairs are quite satisfactory.

   I have attached a couple of links to suppliers of hot knives and other materials.

   Lastly you could just use a hot plate and some small metal painters spatulas. It just depends on how much you want to spend on a system. The oven and spatula ststem is nice but pricey. The electric hot knives take a little getting used to, but once mastered, they are just as efficient.

   http://apps.webcreate.com/ecom/catalog/product_specific.cfm?ClientID=15&ProductID=18884

   http://www.meritindustries.com/rst.htm#rt

   J.P.

   http://www.jpkfinefurniture.com
2. 
   byhammerandhand | Jan 19, 2007 02:49am | #2

   It's my understanding that beaumontage is more wax-based than the resin-based stuff we use here. Konig has a series of hard-wax fillers, though and it's starting to become more used here.

   I use resin ("hard" or "traditional") sticks, newer "soft-melt" sticks, and rarely "low heat" (waxy) sticks. Traditional are shiner and harder, soft melt are softer, lower sheen, and will not shatter (so they're good for edges and feet). I use an electric burn-in knife, but tradition uses knives heated over a sootless alcohol "stove."

   Here is some information on basic "burn-in" procedures:
   http://www.touchuptrainer.com/Instructions/instructionspassword/usgougeburnin.html

   Watch the video and do a couple hundred practice repairs and you will have it.

   (Is this what you're asking about??)

   
   

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   Edited 1/18/2007 6:57 pm ET by byhammerandhand

1. 
   Lataxe | Jan 19, 2007 02:50pm | #3

   Thank you both for the information and for the links. 

   I have learnt from you that there is something called burn-in balm, which I'll get; and at lest two ways to melt/shape the goo.  Also, the use of lacquer thinners is something I was unaware of.

   I found a pack of 5 small artists pallete knives in a local shop for a mere £6 ($12).  I'll try these with a Trangia meths stove burner, as there is one in the loft from camping days and I think that flame is sootless.  I have meths for use with french polishing.

   The hot knife option looks more controllable than a flame and not too expensive.  Am I right to assume that a "cool" hot knife burner is the one for beaumontage and other wax-based fillers?  That is, a knife with temperature control from about 80 - 250 degrees F?

   The wax-based fillers I have are Liberon - their 24 colours of bees/carnuba wax filler sticks and their beaumontage tin of ten "sealing wax" sticks.  When last employed, a few years ago, I used an old cheese knife heated by a hot air gun or blow torch - not exactly an efficient way to go!

   Thank you once more for the info supplied and the pointers to more.

   Lataxe