Peter,
I’ve read various places that epoxy is a good way to fill larger splits and knots (for example Jeff Jewitt’s book on finishing). However, I believe that at least some epoxies turn cloudy with age unless covered with something like spar varnish containg a UV filter (which is not a finish I would use on the furniture work I do.)
Is turning cloudy with age a legitimate concern? Are there some epoxies that don’t have this property and would be recommended for furniture? Will an epoxy fill sand down and polish to a clear surface in the normal surface preparation process? Any other tips on using epoxy?
Thanks,
Mark
Replies
Mark,
It has not been my experience that epoxy will turn cloudy. It's not to say it can't happen. I guess it would depend on the quality of epoxy used.
When using an epoxy I don't use clear epoxy. The two I have experience with are:
Mohawk five minute epoxy. It comes in a variety of colors. You just cut off the amount you want, mix it together and apply it. You must work fast as the window is short.
The other I've worked with extensively is Abatron Wood Epox. It is a two part system and is mixed one to one. It is a dough consistency and is light tan unless colored. I use dry pigments to get the base color. The dry pigments can be obtained from Woodworkers Supply as Fresco powders. Also try Kremer Pigments in New York for dry pigments. When coloring my epoxy I always match it to the lightest part of the wood and will add color as I go along. Remeber the golden rule " You can easily add color, it is much harder to lighten it" If you start out with something too dark, you will have two problems; it will stand out like a sore thumb or you will have to compensate for it throughout the finishing process.
The Abatron epoxy has a much longer working life and is quite versatile. I've used it cast broken pieces of frames. Before it completely sets you can bend it to match a curve or radius, you can imprint it with pores to mimic mahogany or walnut etc. It also can be smoothed before setting with a damp finger tip.
If I have to make a knot for example, I'll mix my epoxy with a little raw sienna and a bit of burnt umber. When it is cured, seal it ( for example) with shellac. This will show me how it relates to it's surrounding's. You can then add the knots definition using gouache water colors. These are available at any art store. The beauty of these are twofold. They dry very quickly and since you are working on a sealed surface, if you don't like what you see simply wipe it off with a damp finger and do it again. They can then be top coated with anything.
Epoxys when cured will sand and level with their surroundings and will blend in well with your finish.
As with any new product EXPERIMENT FIRST. Get a feel for its properties before you use it on furniture etc. You'll be glad you did.
Peter Gedrys
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