What are opinions on using finger joint router bits. Specifically do you cut into the face of the board or into the edge. If I want to join a wide board say 3 or 4 inches then the bit is not long enough to cut across the full width in one pass.
What are opinions on using finger joint router bits. Specifically do you cut into the face of the board or into the edge. If I want to join a wide board say 3 or 4 inches then the bit is not long enough to cut across the full width in one pass.
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Replies
The cut is made into the edge so the fingers are parallel to the face and the joint is only seen in the edge.
Freud America, Inc.
Thanks. That was my conclusion after thinking about it.
Probably in the top ten of all cutters with respect to power demand. I suspect, and in my case, 3-4 passes/profile. The cutter requires above average skill, flat, well milled material and an arrow straight fence.
There is an enormous amount of cutter traction with this cutter so the table, fence, and work must be flat & straight to minimize kicback. You can use it on the face, edge or end of stock.
Expect some adversity adjusting depth of cut, or better yet ignore this cutter altogether. Can't believe this tool was ever made into a router bit, should have been left in the shaper inventory from whence it came.
Routers
I have a shaper and use 1/2" shaft router bits on it. Your comment is interesting since I have been experimenting to see how I can set up to cut the face.
Using the face appears to me to offer a much stronger joint if I can figure out how to do it. If I raise the cutter to make a second cut and cover the entire face of the board, that it is almost impossible to align the two passes. Then the next trick is to cut the mating piece and lower the cutter to get the exact match. So far I haven't been able to do this accurately. Also I don't want to have to adjust cutter height for every pass.
I suspect some kind of rigid jig would help.
It is possible to use the tool as a glue-joint cutter and set the C/L of the stack on the C/L of the work. If your eyes are good and the height of the stack permits, you can center the booger so one cutter setting will be good for both halves of the joint.
Would I want to spend all day crouched around the cutter, taking a 1/2 dozen passes before I knew squat and screw up my back? Not fun for this busy person. There are other ways to join stock face to face; the he88 with that cutter!
Its essential function: To make long stock from scrap that would otherwise go into heating the plant. Indeed, you are correct, serious fixturing is required for most of the cuttings from the tool.
Routers (not shapers)
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