Replies

1. 
   theRev | Jun 17, 2002 11:54am | #1

   Don,

   Don't mean to come off wrong, but maybe the key to French curves is not to use them! You're right about things on paper not coming out right on wood. What I use is a thin wood batten (maybe an eighth or so, depending on the radius of the curve or ess), secure the ends, and bend it to the ess I'm looking for. Maybe because it's wood, it always gives a nice subtle curve and great transitions.

   Scott

2. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jun 17, 2002 03:55pm | #2

   Hi Don,

   Agree with the previous post - This is how I do curves too - have even used 6mm beading for long bends.  Scrap strips approx 2mm thick off table saw are ideal for this use - providing the radius isn't too tight or they have defect and they snap.

   Regards,

   Eddie

1. 
   DonStephan | Jun 17, 2002 04:17pm | #3

   Thanks for your input. I have also used thin strips of wood on occasion, and agree that the resulting curves are great. Sometimes, however, I'd need several extra pairs of hands to try to hold the strip (clamps often don't work) or the curve is too sharp. Then french curves are the only solution that comes to mind.

1. 
   TKanzler | Jun 17, 2002 08:35pm | #4

   I don't know how long a curve you're looking to make, but Staedtler makes (or used to; mine is 15 years old) flexible curves used in drafting and art.  Also, the link below if for an 18" long curve for quilting and such, and appears to be the same as my drafting curve.

   http://www.threadart.com/Q/q182c.asp

   Here's a 12 inch for drafting.  http://search.store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/nsearch?catalog=hearlihy&query=flexible+curve&.autodone=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hearlihy.com%2Fnsearch.html

   I'd also suggest trying an art supply store.

   Edit: I forgot to mention, these curves retain their shape so you don't have to have 6 hands.

   Be seeing you...

   Edited 6/17/2002 1:37:06 PM ET by TDKPE

2. 
   sschefer | Jun 17, 2002 08:46pm | #5

   Don, there are a myriad of different kinds of weights that can help fill in for those needed extra hands. I've even used the drop hitch off my truck on occasion. In the old days, I used to get used tire weights from the service stations, melt them down and fill up tuna cans. The tuna cans still work well but I now drive a carpet tack through the bottom and fill them with Portland cement. I trim the carpet tack back so it just barely penetrates the wood. The cement and tack work pretty well at holding a batten for drawing a curve.

   Steve - in Northern California

   Edited 6/17/2002 1:48:42 PM ET by Steve Schefer

3. 
   theRev | Jun 18, 2002 01:36am | #6

   Steve's on the right track. You need to improvise with only two hands. The weights are good. Boat builders have used them for years for fairing curves. I believe they call them ducks. (Would this be where the phrase "get your ducks in a row" comes from?)

   Scott

1. 
   DP | Jun 18, 2002 04:08pm | #7

   The weights (spline weights) are also called whales due to the shape.  There's only one source that I'm aware of, The Yacht Design School, which charges $28.50/weight.  If anyone knows of another source I'd appreciate them passing the information along.

   Lengths of 1/8" plexiglass that are 1 1/2 - 2" wide make great splines and usually are obtainable for little or no cost. 

1. 
   Danford_C_ | Jun 19, 2002 05:19am | #9

   DP,

   Don't know if I'm too late here....But, I have some plans for some "ducks".....real easy to make, e-mail me or let me know here and I'll post them for you.

   Dano  "Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright

2. 
   DP | Jun 20, 2002 04:12pm | #11

   I, and I'm sure others as well, would be interested in your 'duck plans' if you could post them.  Thanks,

   DP

3. 
   Danford_C_ | Jun 21, 2002 06:45am | #12

   DP, No problem, I'll scrounge 'em up for you.  Sorry, I didn't get back sooner to you.  Been busier than a long tailed cat in a room full o' rockin' chairs.

   Don Stephens, got your message....the above explains my tardiness.

   Dano"Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright

2. 
   DonStephan | Jun 18, 2002 04:09pm | #8

   Sounds very possible. Will start watching my ash boards for some very straight grain and make several thin 3' strips for future use.

3. 
   SgianDubh | Jun 19, 2002 05:43am | #10

   Don, don't forget that ship curves are fairly handy too. They hold their shape fairly well, perhaps  with some tape, and are available in lengths up to about 48" from Staedtler(sp?) and their agents. I find them quite handy, and I like the two pins and bent stick method. MDF is good for bent sticks. No grain worth a damn to cause distortion in the curve.  Slainte, RJ.

   RJFurniture
4. 
   Danford_C_ | Jun 22, 2002 08:05am | #13

   Well guys, I found the long awaited plans for the "duck".  These can be made by laminating or out of a solid block.  Use about 3lbs of lead shot mixed with epoxy and a #8 brass rod for the pointer threaded at one end.  After it's threaded form the arc, bevel the end.  Should form a sideways "L", the pointer's beveled end coplanar to the bottom of the duck.

   My source for the plan is:  "An Attractive Option", by Stephen Kessler, WoodenBoat, Carl Cramer, publisher, February 2000, pg. 103, copyright WoodenBoat.

   Dano

   "Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright

   
1. 
   DP | Jun 22, 2002 04:45pm | #14

   Thanks.  I plan to make a few--even though they look like whales to me :).

   DP

1. 
   Danford_C_ | Jun 22, 2002 06:09pm | #16

   Your're welcome, DP.  Sorry, it took me so long to get it to you.  Yes, they do look like whales; nautical terms and their origin has always been somewhat mysterious to me.  Nonetheless, I've always heard spline weights referred to as "ducks" and that's how Mr. Kessler refers to them.

   As I mentioned here long ago, there are those who actually have linguistic degrees who "specialize" in seeking out their origins, spelling, and correct usage.  WoodenBoat's "On the Waterfront" department by Peter Spectre is often sprinkled with serious debate on such issues, those debate can be quite amusing.

   Any who, I've found it to be easier to make these by laminating, filling the hollow before the top lift, #6, is glued on.  Enjoy.

   Dano"Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright

2. 
   sschefer | Jun 22, 2002 06:09pm | #15

   Dano, I'm not sure if there is any big difference but you won't be able to buy lead shot anymore. It will be steel. I wonder if this will make a significant difference in the weight.Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   Danford_C_ | Jun 22, 2002 06:18pm | #17

   Steve,

   That may be the case in the Land o' Fantasy but, here in the Land o' Survivalisim, I can walk into any gun shop and buy all the lead shot I need.  An alternative might be discarded wheel weights or lead ingots used by the black powder aficionados.

   Any who, 3lbs is 3lbs last time I checked.

   Dano

   "Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright

   Edited 6/22/2002 11:20:55 AM ET by Danford C. Jennings

1. 
   sschefer | Jun 22, 2002 06:28pm | #18

   Dano, I was under the impression that it was a federal law, must have read it wrong. FMJ's are going away for sure.. Stock up now. Are you sure that lead shot isn't left over from the pioneer days. I heard you guys just sneak up on ducks, let out a horrible roar and scare them to death. ROFLOL... Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   jase | Jun 22, 2002 09:23pm | #19

   I believe lead shot is still legal for some upland games birds, but no waterfowl.Jase--Is there a better way?

2. 
   Danford_C_ | Jun 23, 2002 04:13am | #20

   Steve,

   As noted, steel shot has to be used for water fowl.  Lead shot is used for, upland game, rabbits, and other varmits.  Also, 00 lead shot is used for deer in many areas.  You need to "get out more" my friend; that Californy lifestyle must be gettin' to ya. ;-)

   Dano"Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright

3. 
   sschefer | Jun 23, 2002 06:50am | #22

   Yeah, you're right I do have to get out more... A little less fishin and a little more hunting.. gotta find the balance.Steve - in Northern California

5. 
   user-492363 | Jun 23, 2002 05:26am | #21

   For longer curves I use a 1/8" strip of wood about 1 & 1/2 inch wide. Drill a hole in one end & place a string in it. On the other end saw a slot. Tie knots in the string every inch or so for a few inches. You then can bow the slat to the curve you want and slip a knot into the slot to hold the desired curve in the "bow". Straight grain woods will bend well without breaking. They're cheap & quick to make. Formica strips work well also. Any office supply or art store has the flexable rulers which hold any curve you put in them for smaller curves. Jim