Replies

1. 
   KyleZ | Aug 02, 2003 04:51pm | #1

   Bunky,

   I wouldn't use Ipe for any food contact type projects.  I don't know of any specific studies that prove or disprove its toxicity; however the last couples times I've used it, my nose and throat have been a little irritated.  Its been a little while since I've worked with walnut, but it seems like it has the same affect.  Therefore, I wouldn't trust it to be non toxic.  Jon Arno will hopefully hop in here to give you the real scoop.

   I would keep it to use for any exterior projects.

   Cheers

   Kyle

1. 
   jonsherryl | Aug 02, 2003 05:47pm | #2

   Kyle, some members of the ipe genus (Tabebuia) have folk medicine applications. This is both good news and bad news in that ipe's chemistry is obviously active, but may be beneficial in some cases. On the down side, ipe contains lapachol, which is a known allergen, very similar to the one found in teak. In fact, both woods seem to stimulate symptoms in anyone who is known to have a sensitivity to either.

    All things considered, I wouldn't recommend ipe for use in food related (or toy related) projects...although I don't think it ranks among the world's most toxic woods. I'm probably excessively cautious, but the only wood I actually recommend for this purpose is maple...unless, of course, you are intentionally trying to achieve the transfer of extractives; as in oak wine barrels, hickory chips in smoking meat, etc.

   As for using ipe scraps for other wordworking projects, I don't see anything wrong with it, if ipe's "charms" are in keeping with the purpose of what you are making. It's brutally hard, very strong, extremely decay resistant, and variable in color. It's often a rather dull olive drab, but when it's a rich dark brown, it's very attractive. So, like any wood, if it's free and it offers the characteristics you are seeking...then it's a good deal.

1. 
   wop | Aug 04, 2003 11:12pm | #9

       Why only maple ? I use pear a good bit for such uses and it is famed for being quite good for such.

                                                                Philip

1. 
   jonsherryl | Aug 05, 2003 02:44am | #10

   Philip, the wood used in a cutting board isn't so much of a concern, because the contact with food is brief in this application. Where a species' chemistry (its extractives) becomes a serious issue is when the wood is used in association with moist, hot  food or for the long term storage of potables (especially liquids.) This is because these conditions (heat, moisture and time) enhance the leaching process and can cause a higher transfer of toxins to the food.

   As I said in my earlier post, I'm hyper conservative when it comes to species selection for food or toy applications. The reason I am, is that the extractives in woods are not only sometimes toxic in the sense that they are universal poisons (capable of affecting anyone at some dosage relative to their body weight) but they are also often allergens. While any specific allergen will affect only a small percentage of people, even minute amounts of it can cause serious reactions.

   ...So, I only recommend maple, because it is one of the most chemically friendly of all our common hardwoods. There are many other species that would not present a particularly serious risk...but the point I try to stress by being extremely conservative on this issue is that the woods you elect to use around food and for making toys is not simply a component of artistic license. It is a decision involving potentially lethal risks, even if the probability of doing great harm is quite low.  

2. 
   Bunky | Aug 03, 2003 02:08am | #3

   Thank you for the input.  I have been working on this deck and newels all week and have developed a rash on my hands, burning skin when the fine yellow dust is mixed with sweat, and burning in my nasal passages.  I wasn't able to get much info from the supplier, but found some websites about the toxicity of different woods.  (Maybe Fine Woodworking should post a comprehensive list, or links.) I now wear gloves and a dust mask when I work with Ipe.  In spite of this, I've had to run a block plane over some of my saw cuts and the satin smooth finish I get and the beautiful grain patterns in some of the wood is hard to pass up. Plus the price is right.  I have even saved the 1"x 1" rips, so if someone would like to maybe turn pens or make inlays (?) e-mail me [email protected] maybe we can work something out.

3. 
   ChasStanford | Aug 03, 2003 03:07am | #4

   It's a lousy wood for anything else but decks and it wouldn't be my first choice for one of them, either.

1. 
   Bunky | Aug 03, 2003 05:32am | #5

   WHY?

1. 
   ChasStanford | Aug 04, 2003 02:58am | #7

   I just don't like it.

2. 
   wop | Aug 04, 2003 11:09pm | #8

       get a couple of splinters from it..... then ask why.

                                                                                     Philip

4. 
   vacabby | Aug 04, 2003 02:27am | #6

   I agree with Kyle that I wouldn't use it for cutting boards or anything involving food stuff.   I have used it in many exterior use applications and it is a great wood to work with providing you have sharp tooling.   The heavy, dense wood can be hard on edges.    I have used it for exterior furniture, decking and boat work.    The oily resins require polyurethane adhesives and machining for screw holes is recomended.  

   jb