Does anyone know if it is safe to use oak in close proximity to something that could be damaged over time by contact with acidic materials? Is there some kind of neutralizer I can apply to the oak to neutralize the tannic acid before I apply a finish?
I am building a file cabinet with large shallow drawers for storing large sheets of acid-free art paper. I have a lot of old seasoned oak that I would like to use for the sides of the drawers. I need to know in advance if the oak will out-gas or create an acidic envorinment that would damage the paper over the long term. I will naturally seal all surfaces with shellac or lacquer, and the paper will never be in direct contact with unsealed raw oak. Drawer bottoms will be hardboard or masonite, also well sealed. I will also probably put a sheet of acid-free paper on the drawer bottom to act as a buffer between the bottom and the first sheet of paper. The cabinet will not be air tight. Thanks.
Replies
Be careful that the lacquer does not have a formaldehyde catalyst!! You may be better staying with shellac
Oak is one of the worst woods for archival storage. It is not just contact that is the problem but acidic vapors.
If wood must be used, shellac is probably the best way simple way to seal the wood vapors, according to some conservation sites I have seen. Don't just use a coat or two, but build a a more significant coating. Other consumer grade varnishes introduce their own chemical problems and shouldn't be used. But if important items will be stored for a long period of time, I would use metal boxes or specifically designed plastic containers and not try to make wood containers "acceptable."
Sir,
Could you address preferred finishes and woods for bookcases? If this is a redundant question, maybe you would direct me to a good resource.
Also, if you recommend metal file drawers, is there a source you can recommend for these that come ready to accept wooden fronts?
Any advice would be appreciated.
I like shellac on bookshelves, and if I could chose among any woods it would be Honduran mahogany or walnut. But any hardwood will work well, with the choice depending on tastes and decor. For dual purpose shelves which see more "action" than book cases, a good oil base varnish works well. By my preference this would be a traditional resin varnish. There is nothing wrong with softwood book cases--I have a number of pine book cases, some with shellac finishes over dye, and used as a glaze. I also have painted some with milk paint (not milk paint looking latex paint) that I seal and enrich the color with a coat or two of Waterlox Original, or Watco Danish Oil. Oil based paint is OK, latex is not, and high quality acyrlic enamel may be OK depending on the particular brand.
Google "sagulator". That site will show how wide bookcases can be to avoid excess deflection given the expected load and the species and dimensions of the shelf.
I'm afraid I don't know any brands of metal cabinets.
Much thanks. Happy Holidays.
From the Canadian Conservation Institute
This may be helpful:
http://www.cci-icc.gc.ca/publications/cidb/view-document_e.aspx?Document_ID=80
Many thanks to all of you for your input. I guess the oak stays on the racks and I shell out for some birch or maple. And I'll coat it well with shellac. I have also just made up my mind to use only a partial back for the cabinet, so it can ventilate. I'll stick with wood and not metal, since this is really only for fairly short-term storage -- any given sheet of paper will only be in this cabinet for a couple years at most.
The Canadian Conservation Institute info is excellent. Another way to help mitigate wood storage (in addition to sealing properly and ventitlating) is to line drawers or cabinets with special mat board that absorbs and holds pollutants.Conservation Resources, an archival supplier, makes a line of papers and cardboard called "Microchamber" that are manufactured with compounds that act as molecular "sponges". They make boxes and other enclosures but also sell the papers and boards. Small company but very high quality and friendly service, i.e. if you call they are often willing to sell custom sizes etc. without extra charge. I'm not affiliated but have used them for archival supplies and found both the service and products excellent:http://www.conservationresources.com/Main/S%20CATALOG/default.htmLook for the section on archival boards and papers.
If wood must be used in this situation use pawlonia (sp?) Asian art galleries use it all the time for storing old scrolls and the like.
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