Using paste wax following finishing with automotive compounds
I recently finished a project and followed the rubbing schedule for the table top from Jeff Jewit’s article from the Jan/Feb 1999 issue of Fine Woodworking, “The Quick, Modern Way to a Polished Finish”. In the article he mentioned using Meguiar’s #1 medium cut cleaner, followed by #2 fine cut cleaner, finishing with #9 Swirl remover (all using a power buffer). They all worked well, but I’m wondering if I should apply a paste wax for a final finished step? As always, I’d appreciate the advice.
Replies
Final Polish
You can - it will add protection - also paste waxes come in colors in case you have open grains
SA
Wax adds some protection, but it isn't very much. And, it's an issue of once you start waxing, you need to keeping waxing since wax can look grungy after a time. But, it only takes a little naphtha to remove the wax if regular waxing becomes a drag.
Hey Steve,
It's been a while. I noticed that whenever a question about wax comes up you always say " once you start you have to keep doing it" It almost sounds like there will be some type of problem if you don't keep doing it. In my experience I've never seen an issue.
I'm not sure what you mean about it looking grungy either. Let's face it wax is fragile if it gets worn constantly, but is very stable at the same time. I have quite a few tables with shellac and wax finishes. They're easy to dust, and if I want a little more shine I just buff it a little. Simple. I have a tiger maple table in my kitchen that on occasion we'll have dinner on. When we have guests it gets used heavily. It's about 10 years old ,the finish is shellac and wax. In those ten years I may have waxed it twice but not more than three times. It looks fine.
I agree that if you want it removed, as you already stated, it's quite simple.
Off topic, you've been here a couple of times so you know my driveway. I needed a front end loader to clear it after this last storm. There is a mountain of snow next to my shop that is a couple of feet shy of the roof. How did you make out?
Peter
As if Steve needs a backup, he is right on about wax. Once you start, you just have to keep up the maintenance. I used to clean and wax my furniture once a year. DEAR GOD. What was I thinkin'!! The finish is sufficient (which is what I think Steve is saying and I am reinforcing). Wax and furniture lotion are just not necessary for a great looking piece of finishing/furniture surface.
Gretchen,
I guess I'm just not maintaining my furniture by that analogy. As I said with a table that has wax over shellac and gets a fair amount of use, I've only put wax on it a couple of times in the last ten years. It looks great. I have other furniture that doesn't have that type of finish and receives no wax. I can't say any of it causes me any extra work.
What would you do to clean furniture prior to a re-wax?
There was an English author on finishes, his name escapes me at the moment, who declared the only TRUE patina was a wax patina.
Is wax an absolute necessity? Of course not. Is a wipe on finish the only good coating? Of course not. On some pieces I just like the look and feel of a wax topcoat.
Another attribute of wax is on carved elements. You can apply it, buff the high points and leave the recesses matte. It creates visual height and depth. The same thing is done with gilt work when you burnish a high point and not the flats; height and depth.
In a recent seminar someone questioned the frailty of a shellac and wax finish hearing that all sorts of bad things will happen if it gets wet. I had a small table with that finish, I put it in front of my bench poured a cup of water on it and set a water bottle in the water. I finished the seminar which took about 20 minutes answered questions for another 10 and then wiped it dry. No rings no demise of the coating.To be fair, I've done the same with lacquer and varnish coatings but they are known to be quite water resistant.The wax added that extra bit of protection to the shellac finish.
Thanks very much for the comment. I like the idea of using the auto finish suggested and think that may be the answer in this case.
On a highly polished surface like a table, I find that wax, particularly paste wax, shows. I've been using a polymer paint sealant. It has gloss enhancers, anti-static, UV protection and is very easy to apply, lasts a long, long time. I'm sure there are many manufacturers that make a similar product but I've been using The Chemical Guys for my detailing supplies.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Showroom_Mirror_Finish_Gloss_Magnifier_Glaze_p/gap_104.htm
Thanks very much for the response. I liked the suggestion and have decided to try the Mirror Finish you mentioned - ordering from the site you sent. I think this will provide an easy and durable alternative to the paste wax. Thanks again!
Boy this product sounds a lot like it contains silicone. Silicone won't hurt the finish, but if refinishing is ever needed it could really complicate the process. I didn't see any MSDS or the like to check ingredients.
The product contains no wax or silicone.
I couldn't find any mention that the product didn't contain silicone on the web pages that were linked. It is not something that would have to be mentioned on the label of a car polishing product so only an explicit statement that it contains no silicone would be good evidence. Can you help me out?
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