Replies

1. 
   QCInspector | Aug 18, 2007 10:03pm | #1

   You can do either. As long as your blades are sharp there wouldn't be any problem with an even heavier cut, but if you're more comfortable with 2 passes then do it that way. If you have any wider scrap (6" or more) that you can hold comfortably, play with it to see how the technique works and feels before trying those narrower back slats.

   If you think about it, when you flatten a board the full width of your jointer, more wood is removed than by tapering that back slat, and you don't loose control then do you?

   The jointer method is a no jig way of quickly cutting the tapers. Saves you from having to make a taper jig for the table saw, planer, router, etc., that you may not need again.

   By the way a hand plane is another option for the few pieces you have to make (assuming you're not going to make a yard full of chairs).

1. 
   Wanda200 | Aug 21, 2007 10:51pm | #2

   Hi,

   The jointer worked like a charm tapering the back slats. In no time at all I had the slats tapered.  After using a table saw and jig in the past for tapering slats I'll never use that method again when I can easily taper slats using the jointer.

   Glad I picked up that issue of Fine Woodworking. What a great tip.

   Wanda

    

1. 
   QCInspector | Aug 22, 2007 01:16pm | #3

   I new you could do it.;)Now if you want expand your jointer repertoire a little bit you can make curves by doing the same but in multiple passes with the starting point moved a little bit shorter with each pass. Take light / thinner cuts until you get the hang of it. Be careful as the end gets shorter there is less contact with the table and you need to exercise some judgment and know when to stop. If you make one more long pass from the beginning with a light cut you smooth out the curve. The result looks a little like the curve from a Gothic arch. Done from both sides it almost makes a point like a picket fence board. Where to apply it in your furniture is up to your imagination.