using UHMW Polyethylene for a zee clearance insert on the saw
timhorchler
| Posted in Jigs, Fixtures, Tips & Tricks on
Purchased material and crafted it to the correct shape but saw almost immediately that the UHMW was moving on me. It was warped. I attached a flat piece of maple (1″x1″) under the UHMW with screws and this may work on the side away from the fence but the side between blade and the fence is narrower and I may not want to put wood there.
So the question is: is there a way to make this piece of UHMW flat? Might it be heated some on a flat surface to make it relax? Should I use the jointer as one would use with a warped board?
Hep me out here.
Tim
Replies
Forget the uhmw plastic.
It is not worth the effort. Make them from plywood. I don't know what kind of saw you have, on my unisaw I make them from plywood, the plywood is a little thinner than the recess so I run 4 flat head screws into the bottom to adjust for level with the top. You coould also mill solid wood to the exact thickness needed, I like plywood for this and especially push sticks as it won't split along the long grain likje solid wood.
I give up with UHMW
I have come to agree with you. Fuss, fuss and still not there. I have made zero parts in the past and will return to it.
Tim
A better choice might be Garolite. It is phenolic similar to that used in bandsaw "cool blocks". You can get it in plain black or graphite-loaded self-lubing flavors.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3613/=jaw9k8
Garolite is an upgrade from UHMW in almost any situation. The only reason I ever use UHMW in preference is when I need to ensure that no glue sticks to a fixture. For moving parts it's phenolic. Good luck!
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