Replies

1. 
   jeffn7 | Jan 19, 2003 07:50pm | #1

   you might try thinning it slightly with some mineral spirits so it can dry faster.

1. 
   user-559069 | Jan 19, 2003 07:57pm | #2

   Hi, Jeff. The bubbles aren't developing as the finish dries, but rather as I'm brushing the finish on. It's as if the brush itself is creating the bubbles, and the problem gets worse the longer I brush. Cleaning the brush helps temporarily, but I don't want to have to keep doing that again and again.

1. 
   Gretchen | Jan 19, 2003 08:27pm | #3

   You didn't shake the varnish did you?  Contrary to James Bond's martinis varnish should be stirred not shaken.Still might need to thin a bit.

   Gretchen

   Edited 1/19/2003 12:28:17 PM ET by GRETCHEN50

1. 
   user-559069 | Jan 19, 2003 08:36pm | #4

   Hi, Gretchen! NO, no shaking!!! Very careful stirring! I shall try the thinning suggestion that you and Jeff both said might help. Thanks . Any idea how much? And would alcohol work better than water as a thinner?

1. 
   jeffn7 | Jan 20, 2003 03:56am | #10

   sorry, I made the assumption that you were using oil-based varathane... water is the only thinner for any water-based finish.

2. 
   user-559069 | Jan 20, 2003 04:40am | #11

   I thought you knew something about this stuff that I didn't, Jeff.  Even if I had tried the mineral spirits, it still wouldn't have been any more of a mess than all those stupid little bubbles. Thinning it with water and better technique does seem to be making a remarkable difference. I may actually like this stuff after all!Can you even imagine not being free? We are so lucky, and I am so grateful. God Bless America.

2. 
   Sprucegum | Jan 19, 2003 08:45pm | #5

   I find the only way to handle waterborne varathane is to put it on so thin there is no room for a bubble.

   Do not "brush" ,flow out gently and feather out the bubbles using only the tip of the brush, traveling in one direction only and going the full length of the piece if possible.

   It is easier to put on a thin coat if you work in a vertical position instead of horizontal - I mean the workpiece, not you. HaHa Remember this is supposed to be fun. Lighten your mind and lighten your hand.

   It's not what you chew, it's how you chew it
1. 
   user-559069 | Jan 19, 2003 09:09pm | #6

   Sitting here laughing! I try not to combine my two favorite hobbies(woodworking and napping), but I'll admit that I've gotten into some pretty silly positions trying to apply a finish to a big piece that I couldn't move around!

   I'm wondering if the brush I'm trying to use might be too thick? You suggest a very thin coat, which makes a lot of sense to me. Do you have a suggestion as to which brush might work best? The guy at Lowes sold me a synthetic that he said was just the thing for waterborne finishes. What do you use, Spruce?

   Thanks for your help!

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jan 19, 2003 10:07pm | #7

   Cat - if the Varathane is water-base - the ONLY thinner to use is water. Take a cup of the Varathane and thin it 5% and see how it works. If needed, you can thin more, in 5% increments - but I wouldn't thin more than 20%.

   To brush water-base finishes, a soft good quality synthetic bristle artists' brush does the best job. You can get these at art stores, craft stores, or on-line finish suppliers (e.g., http://www.targetcoatings.com ).

   Before brushing, dip the brush in water and shake it out. The water will pre-condition the brush. Dip the brush 1/2 - 2/3 into the Varathane and tap it lightly against the side of the container to remove the excess. Apply the finish quickly, using light strokes to "lay" it on the wood. Lay it on smooth, re-load the brush, and continue. After each application, run the very ends of the bristles over the top of the wet finish very ligthy to smooth it - do not brush back and forth - this causes the bubbles and water-base dries too fast for this. You have to work quickly because the water-base dries so fast.

   If you get a good wet coat down without excessive brushing, it should come out fine. It may not look great the minute you get done, but it will settle out as it dries.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

1. 
   user-559069 | Jan 20, 2003 01:17am | #9

   Paul and Lee:

   Thanks guys for your help--I've gotten more info today about this finish than I ever have asking ?? around here. Paul, I appreciate the link to Target, too, as I had read about it earlier and had no idea how to find a dealer near me.

   I'll be honest--the reason I tried the stuff was because I brought a piece into the house to finish since it's so cold here right now, and I had heard that the fumes were less obnoxious than other finishes. That part is true enough, but I'm not sure it's worth the trouble.

   I'm going to start over on this and try your suggestions--seems my technique could use some work! As with other things I've tried, I'll either master it and add it to my list of skills, or decide that it's a bit too clever for me and go back to my old ways, which I am pretty good at by now, at least!

   This old bat doesn't give up easily, so here I go! Let you know what happens HA HA!

3. 
   LeeGrinding1 | Jan 19, 2003 11:22pm | #8

   You have run up against the biggest problem water based finishes will probably never overcome....surface tension.

   The surface tension of water is so high that the bubbles rising from the open grain oak do not burst. It's not your brush, it's not your technique, it's surface tension.

   If you insist on using water based products apply it very thin, thin enough so there is no surface tension. This means wiping it on. Another option is fill the oak with grain and pore filler so bubbles don't form.

   The best of the water based finsihes I've used is Oxford Hybrid. It has some oil in it but the surface tension is still too high for open grained woods or complex surfaces.

   Lee

   Lee Grindinger

   Furniture Carver