I am building a chest of drawers from bloodwood and myrtle and started applying a Watco danish oil finish on the bloodwood side panels. I sanded down to 220 grit and applied 3 coats of the oil sanding with 600 between coats.
-The finish is nice and smooth, however I was so impressed with the depth of the bloodwood (It has some beautiful yellow streaks) while the oil was still wet that now I want a more glossy finish for it.
-The question is: can I apply a varnish finish over the top of the danish oil or should I remove the previous finish first? Maybe some naphtha or mineral oil? I was thinking of using fast-dry wipe on varnish as in the article from FWW #143. Any suggestions or advice.
Replies
You can allow the oil to dry for a couple of weeks, and then apply a thin ( very thin) coat of de waxed shellac over the oil. Then you can apply varnish over the shellac after it has cured for a day or so. I've done this with many table tops. One thing to be aware of, is varnish is difficult to rub out on anything but flat surfaces so it is not the best choice for complex shaped pieces. This is why I use it only for table tops. Shellac or padding lacquer are a better choice for other parts of ####piece of furniture. Both can achieve a very high gloss, and are easy
( compared to varnish) to work with.
Rob Millard
I have finished several pieces with Danish Oil and then mixed a solution of 1:1 of Varnish and Mineral Spirits. This is just a thin version of Varnish that allows me to wipe it on.
Note: just make sure you allow the Danish Oil to dry completely before going to the varnish. I usually let it dry for 2-3 weeks.
Dark Magneto
Yes, you can apply an oil base varnish over Danish Oil. Danish oil is just linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits so it's completely compatable with another oil based finish. Just let it dry 3-5 days, lightly scuff sand with 320 and go to it.
I recommend using an interior rated varnish or poly varnish. The interior has more resin solids and makes for a harder finish. Two coats should be enough.
For an even easier job, mix your varnish 50/50 with mineral spirits and wipe it on. Use three coats if you do it this way. Let me know if you want detailed instructions and I will post them.
Thanks for the input. I knew that danish oil was a mixture of varnish and oil, but I wasn't sure what affect the extra oil would have on the varnish finish. I plan on using a fast dry interior varnish mixed 1:1 with naphtha to speed the drying time and apply 3-4 coats.
- I have only applying the danish oil to the panels of the frame and panel sides. If I just use varnish on the rest of the project will it look different than where there is danish oil underneath? Or should I be consistant and use danish oil first and varnish on top for the rest?
add a capfull of Japan drier per quart of varn. it helps.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
>>I plan on using a fast dry interior varnish mixed 1:1 with naphtha to speed the drying time
I did some tests on "fast dry" varnishes last year. I found that using naphtha actually caused the finish to flash off (become tack free) too fast. It caused problems when wiping on larger surfaces and there was little chance for any flow out or smoothing. Mineral spirits worked much better with the "fast dry" products. You should still be able to get on a new coat every hour.
As to whether the two sections will look different, I can't say. You should try it out on some scraps from your project.
I will say that just plain, old boiled linseed oil would have given you exactly the same look as using a danish oil. It's the linseed oil in the danish oil that adds the color. If you plan to overcoat with varnish, just use a coat of boiled linseed oil.
Howie.........
Use Waterlox. No thinning, high solids content. Apply a coat per day. Much better than building your own. Available in satin, semi and high gloss. The best stuff available so far as I'm concerned. Also available in marine flavor for outdoor use. I'd apply a coat of the danish oil everywhere first to make sure the color matches.
You can achieve an astounding finish by sanding-in several coats of finishing oil (Liberon is my favorite). I generally start @ 220-grit silicon carbide wet-or-dry, then 320, 400, and depending on the species, I may proceed through 500 and 600. Wait a day or two between coats. After the last coat, wait about a week and apply a wax containing carnauba.
Attached photo shows results.
Good luck,
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Edited 5/28/2004 3:22 pm ET by jazzdogg
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