Replies

1. 
   user-126535 | Apr 01, 2006 12:36am | #1

     Have you tried Montour Products?  They are FANTASTIC. They have a Linseed oil blend, Linseed oil varnish blend, a product they call Carnoil (which is great) a combo of Carnuba wax and an oil blend.  I make custom furniture for a living and use a LOT of different finishes depending on the situation and application etc. but if you're going for the hand rubbed look and feel, you can't beat Montour products.  We've used numerous products - Danish Oil, Tung oils, Linseed oils and pretty much the different brands (Tried and True, Arm-R-Seal, Jasco, Minwax, etc.) and combination of these products and have found that we like the Montour the best....and no, I don't work for these guys!  ; )

   http://www.montourwax.com

1. 
   Epicure | Apr 01, 2006 09:35pm | #5

   Thanks a lot for the info. I see I am not the only one who has problems figuring that.

   I will try your advices and suggestions on scrap wood and make my mind after that.

   THX again.

1. 
   user-126535 | Apr 02, 2006 08:41am | #6

   No Problem...I'm glad that I could have helped a little.  IF you have the time and a few extra $, I would check into the Montour products.  You will NOT be dissapointed.

   Goood Luck....

2. 
   John_D | Apr 01, 2006 01:44am | #2

   I'm hoping someone experienced answers your question, because I thought the problem I'd seen was that other films don't stick over shellac unless it's dewaxed.  I'd not heard about varnish failing over (dried pure tung or linseed) oils.  I'll be interested because I oil everything.

   Man, there's a lot of stuff to learn. :)

   My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
1. 
   user-126535 | Apr 01, 2006 02:00am | #4

   You're correct.  Use dewaxed shellac between coats to be sure that you don't have an adhesion problem. Keep reading...

3. 
   user-126535 | Apr 01, 2006 01:56am | #3

   Hi Again...I have a little more time now and can explain a little more. 

   The Montour Co. started off and still make, custom furniture. Most of it being Cherry wood. The story goes that they started making their own products for themselves after using and not liking the products on the market.  After several 'friends' kept asking for more and more they decided to see if there was a market for their products...and as they say, the rest is history. 

   As to your original question...there's finishing (oil) products that are not compatible with some varnishes and others that are. One thing that is crucial is the drying times between the two. Allow the oil finish to dry completely before applying the top coat.  You can also apply shellac after the oil is DRY possibly one to three days depending on humidity and temperatures. After the shellac has dried then you could go with the top coat/s.  I hope this helps you....

    

4. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 02, 2006 10:55pm | #7

   For grain popping one light coat of BLO is all that is needed.  Any varnish can be put over it once it cures.  If the varnish is waterborne, or polyurethane give the oil a week a reasonably warm place to be sure it is cured.  If you put my choice, a traditional resin varnish such as Behlen's Rockhard, you can put it on a few days quicker.  Other top flight varnishes include Pratt & Lambert 38 and McCloskey Heirloom.  I don't know the Montour finishes so I can't comment, though I am always skeptical of a FANTASTIC anything. 

    

   
   

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   Edited 4/2/2006 3:59 pm ET by SteveSchoene

5. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 03, 2006 03:49am | #8

   First, you should really have asked this question in the Finishing Forum.  Lots of good info available there.

   Watco is nothing more than linseed oil, varnish and a thinner.  It, and other similar "oil's" are called oil/varnish products.  You can easily mix up your own by mixing equal parts of boiled linseed oil, varnish or poly varnish and mineral spirits.  It can give you a fairly nice finish but it is not very durable and needs to be renewed periodically to keep its appearence.

   It's the linseed oil in Watco that "pops" the grain.  If you want the look of Watco with more protection, just wipe on a coat of boiled linseed oil, let it set for 15 minutes and wipe it dry.  Then let it dry 2-3 days.  Then over coat it with whatever clear coat you want.  Any oil based varnish will work fine.  If you plan to use a waterborne finish, wait five days for the linseed oil to dry completely.

   Howie.........