Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 14, 2006 02:08pm | #1

   You are facing the basic problem with varnish--it dries so slowly that it picks up dust and lint from the atmosphere unless the air is extremely clean.  There are a number of steps that can be taken to improve the situation, but it is doubtfull dust nibs can be completely eliminated. 

   Before getting to the elimination of dust, the question arises--why marine varnish?  It is very high quality to be sure, and at $25 per quart it should be.  But it may not be the best for your use.  I don't visuallize podium tops as being items that spend all summer outdoors in sunny locations.  Unless that's the case, the softness and flexibility of spar varnish isn't needed. Because of that flexibility spar varnish is poorly suited to be rubbed out--worse even than polyurethane varnish.  And rubbing out the finish after it has cured is by far the best way to get rid of dust nibs completely.   

   If the particular durability of varnish is needed at all, then you want to use a traditional resin interior varnish.  Behlen Rockhard is a good choice.  Better would be a fast drying rubbing varnish, but they are scarce on the ground.  Ronan's Quick Rubbing Varnish is still listed, but very hard to find.  Ronan is most usually associated with Japan colors. 

   Most of the podium designs I've need could be quite satisfactorily finished with shellac, which is much harder than varnish, dries much faster, and rubs out beautifully and easily. You only need to provide a place for the speaker to set a glass without creating rings.   

   To reduce dust as much as possible, you need to eliminate dust in the finishing room.  Floors should be wet mop'd (vacuuming puts dust into the air, unless the vacuum unit is in a different space.)  Misting the air with water helps to settle dust, though you don't want humidity too high (less than 60% is likely OK) when the finish is applied.  An electrostatic air cleaner might be of help, though not being used when solvent finishes are in close quarters. Then the space should be allowed to sit with still air to let dust settle.  Clothes and hair should be really clean or covered with lintless tyvek.  Brushes must be scrupleously cleaned with soap and water, thoroughly rinsed and then dried in paper covers--even new brushes. The varnish itself should be strained through a paint filter.  (Never work directly from the can--it will soon be contaminated by the brush).  Be prepared to have a cover that fits closely, without touching, over the finish item(s) to keep the amount of air circulating while the varnish cures.   Lintless cloths wet with thinner and then then dried with another lintless cloth work better than tack rags, I believe. 

1. 
   Westchester | Feb 09, 2010 08:07am | #2

   Kmbymr
   if you're finishing in
   Kmbymr

   if you're finishing in the same space where the woodworking takes place - you are making things harder then it should be.

   Hopefully you're using fresh finish from a new can -

   Don't give up on thorough drying first and sanding out the imperfections - rather then redo -

   SA

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 09, 2010 11:10am | #3

   Should have had thorough drying by now, given the original posting was in 2006.

   Several key points for people thinking about varnishing:

   Save spar varnish for exterior use, where particular flexibility and UV protection is needed.

   You can reduce dust on the surface, but, short of clean room conditions, not eliminate it for any film finish that takes as long as varnish to dry.

   Expect to rub out varnish for really hi-end results.

   And, wipe on varnish dries enough faster that dust collection is greatly reduced, enough for most non-critical applications, but, because of the thin coats it's rubbing out potential is less, "full strength" non-poly varnish can be rubbed to the better surface quality, among the brush on finishes.