For you users of the Vega TS fence, do you the narrow stock push device that rides on the fence? (http://www.vegawoodworking.com/table_saw_fences.bmp)
I find that as I push the stock through the blade, it gets harder and harder to push – almost like the device is applying more down pressure than forward pressure.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks,
Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Replies
is the fence and the blade true to each other or are you pinching the wood that is the reason its getting harder to push through
Thomas B. Palumbo
CUSTOM WOODWORKING
No fence and blade are fine. - Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
I've had the Vega Fence for a long time, The original narrow stock pusher that came with the fence did not have an "L" shaped moveable pusher: it was just a verticle piece of 1/4" plywood. That seemed to work fine except for small pieces where the "L" shaped pusher is better. I use both kinds now but more often I find myself using the straight pusher. The striaght exerts no downward pressure.
Joe
I was wondering how I could modify the L shaped pusher so it put less downward pressure on the wood... Any ideas - of course, I can replace the pusher with a straight one like yours - I have lots of plexiglas...Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Mark:
I've been making mine out of 1/4" plywood for years. If I'm making cuts narrower then 1/4" the pushers just get cut thinner with the stock I'm cutting. The first "L" shaped one I got is from a tracing I made from Vega at a Woodworking Show. I think the one's from Vega are some kind of plastic, But I think the plywood ones are safer. No cracking or pieces of plastic being cut off and flying around. If the blade hits it it just cuts like any other piece of 1/4" plywood.
I think if you lengthen the part that holds the wood down it would exert less downward pressure where it contacts the piece being cut.
Joe
Joe, great! Your fix should do exactly what you saySee my post above to explain what is going on...The part looks easy enough to duplicate and modify in plywood.Thanks,
Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
I'm not familiar with the Vega fence or pusher, but I'll ask anyway: Is there any chance your fence slopes downhill some, front-to-back on the saw?
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Forest Girl, (and everyone else)...Your question prompted me to look again at what was going on when I pushed a piece through the blade.The pushing device is designed to push forward and press down. (about 30% of the forward pressure is converted to downward pressure) It is also designed for narrow short wood (or the last 12-15" of a long board.)I put a 10" long piece of 2" pine in the saw and kept shaving 1/4" off the stock and watched what happened.As the majority of 10" board went over the top of the TS insert plate, pushing forward got really hard.I watched this a couple of times and observed that my insert plate is flexing! The plate is 3/32" steel with no ribbing or other reinforcement or support.So in effect, the board gets pressed into the plate, the plate flexes under the load, the board curves (and twists slightly :-( ).The fix, I suspect is to replace the TS Insert or figure out how to reinforce or brace the current plate.Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Wow, Mark, good eye! An excellent display of diagnostic technique!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
My Vega fence has the pusher attachment and it works very well. I actually use it for wider pieces too, since I don't have a blade guard, just a Merlin splitter. Sounds like your splitter or the fence itself is pinching the workpiece. Do not alter the L shaped plastic as it is well-engineered by the maker. Your problem has to be a set-up adjustment. The last time I had the problem was after running some big sheets of plywood through the saw, by myself. All of that leverage from the big pieces can really play havoc with your fence and splitter alignment. Heres what I do to quick check the alignment:
Run a two foot narrow scrap through the saw. Now leave the saw off and push the good piece through the blade and splitter again. You will be able to observe and feel if there is binding going on. Also, the workpiece may show some burning from the trailing edge of the blade making contact, especially on maple or oak. Use your regular technique for realignment if you find a problem.
Edited 4/17/2005 6:20 pm ET by Quartersawn
Read my follow on posts.There is no splitter on my saw - the insert plate is flexing under the pressure...Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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