Replies

1. 
   douglas2cats | Apr 13, 2005 03:13am | #1

   I guess I'm confused about why you even need to veneer. You've already got good hardwood showing so why cover it up? Or why bother spending money on cherry laminations if you were just going to cover it with veneer. You could have just used MDF for the curved fronts if it was going to be covered by veneer. I guess I'm under the impression that the whole idea of bent laminations was to get curved surfaces while still achieving a solid wood look. Unless the cherry you used isn't particularly attractive, I'd say leave it alone.

   Waddaya mean it wont fit through the door?

1. 
   Grampsy | Apr 13, 2005 03:20am | #2

   One drawer front is 12'' high (filling cabinet). The form I made for the laminations is only 3''. I had to glue up 4 sections. Besides I'm going with a book matched veneer front. It's Cherry because luckily I have a friend with a saw mill.

    

   Thanks

2. 
   LeeGrindinger | Apr 13, 2005 03:48am | #3

   No need to sweat veneering the back side, the drawer sides and the number of lams will restrain those fronts nicely.

   Lee

   MontanaFest
3. 
   Lee0 | Apr 13, 2005 04:07am | #4

   is the veneer cherry as well? if you cut the veneer yourself you can cut it heavy say 3/32 or an 1/8. this allows you some room to plane it to a nice fit if there is any springback. i know that sounds heavy but if you alternate your grain direction when you lay out your lamination there should be little spring back. if you do curved work w/ laminations you really don't need to worry about veneering both sides unless you do apply the final veneer after you make the form. it has a good chance of twisting if you add moisture to only one side after you make your form. if that is the case then mist the back of the form that does not get the veneer or just do both sides at the same time. or use a non water based glue to apply the veneer to the face. sounds like you made the forms. if you have thin veneer that you bought then i would put that on last. less chance for you to damage the veneer. if you only do the face. if not and you decide to veneer both sides the veneer first and be careful. <G> this is how i do bow front drawers (short version)

   1 make form

   2 slice all laminations and veneers

   3 glue up all at once

   4 trim to exact size of opening

   5 cut sides and back

   6 cut tails

   7 cut groove for bottom and runners

   8 fit tails

   9 plane to fit opening

   ps dont try to fit the veneer around the dovetails that will look very bad! and i pray that you are not veneering all 6 sides if they are dovetailed! if you want that look of the same wood as the veneer then use the same wood as the veneer. there should be ko reason to trim around the joints. good luck and have fun!

   cheers
   lee

1. 
   DougF | Apr 13, 2005 04:33pm | #5

   Lee,

   I am faced with somewhat the same issue.  I am plan to apply 3/32 - 1/8" resawn quilted big leaf maple to a flat solid cherry substrate.  If I use an apoxy such as Unibond, can I only face the fronts? 

   Doug

    

1. 
   LeeGrindinger | Apr 13, 2005 05:34pm | #6

   Yup, a drawer is well restrained.  It is common to find older pieces with only one face veneered.  "Restrained" is the key word here.

    

   I would caution you about your veneer thichness.  Thinner is better because 3/32" still has a mind of it's own and can exert it's own will on the substrate.  It won't necessarily fail but it could work loose over time as the maple and cherry argue with each other.

    

   LeeMontanaFest

1. 
   DougF | Apr 13, 2005 06:06pm | #7

   Lee,

   Thanks for the response.  The plan is to resaw and dimension to net a finished piece that about 1/16.  Although the drawer is ultimately constrained through the joinery, my concern is cupping after the bonding and before I actually assemble the drawers.  I plan to leave the pieces in the press for about a week to give the epoxy plenty of time to cure.  I'm in no hurry.

   Doug       

   Edited 4/13/2005 2:07 pm ET by Doug

1. 
   LeeGrindinger | Apr 13, 2005 09:41pm | #8

   A sixteenth is good. I'm not sure leaving it in the press is necessary. What will cause it to react is a change in moisture between faces. The epoxy acts as a sealer so that face won't give or take moisture like the other face will. If it's going to be a while before you get this thing in shackles you may want to veneer both sides.edit: the veneer on the backside is unimportant, it's the glueline you're looking for and the tensile issues between it and the veneer and the substrate. This is where balance comes in.Lee

   Edited 4/13/2005 2:44 pm ET by Lee_Grindinger

2. 
   DougF | Apr 13, 2005 09:54pm | #9

   Lee, you're right.  Since the drawers, at least the all but the faces, will be natural cherry with a lacguer topcoat, I'll lay down a sealer coat on the backside of the drawer front right after they come out of the press.  Thanks agin.

   Doug