I reveneeryed the top and side of a dresser a while back,out in my unseated barn/ shop I brought it in the house when finished and it soon wrinkled all to crap,I used heat glued veneer.I have never done veneer before so it’s probably a mistake of ignorance!
My idea is ,possibly being outside in an unheated shop the dresser absorbed moisture all over and when I applied the veneer with heat it was dry from the heat and when I brought the dresser in ,the original parts dried and shrunk while the veneer may have stayed the same or maybe even absorbed a bit of moisture and got larger and he veneer gave in huge wrinkles.Does this sound like a likely scenario to those with veneer experience?
I’ve gotten over it now and would like to have a go at it this time doing in the house after the new veneer acclimatized a couple weeks.the veneer was not quite the right grain any way and I would like to make the dresser beautiful again it has a “lyre” type mirror support frame which may not be the exact term for it. But appears to be white oak quite old.
I would appreciate any help from anyone to help.
Replies
You don't mention what the substrate is? Was it solid wood with the grain perpendicular to the veneer? If not I don't think your theory regarding wood movement is correct. I'm no expert on veneering but it seems to me the wrinkles are along the long grain which shouldn't see enough movement to cause those wrinkles. I would suspect the adhesion was never that good to begin with and would suggest you consider using conventional veneer and either Contact Cement or conventional adhesives next time. I've not had the best of luck with thermo adhesive backed veneers in the past.
Sometimes you can reactivate glue with heat. I've used an iron covered with some kraft paper. If it looks like its working, you'll have to clamp it and cross your fingers.
Another alternative is just work some glue under the lifted veneer and clamp it for 24 hrs.
If getting this back down doesn't work out and you remove it, get quartersawn white oak next time. It will match the solid wood portion of your top better.
I've never used iron on veneer, so it's possibly just a shortcoming of the material, not you.
The wrinkles have too much pressure behind them to clamp ,I feel it would only result in giving somewhere else or breaking the veneer .the veneer is also wrong type and grain to look right so I feel bite the bullet and start again actually we use to say that to each other in the carpentry crew” Do the right job right the first time!” When we had to break out the “ meow bar” ( cat claw) to fix a mistake.As John c2 said quarter sawn white oak,my son in law said that also a year ago,good call John ,I also looked at some and the grain is much nicer match .Esch5995,the substrate is a poplar base frame laying basically ( if I recall correctly)along the same grain direction.this leaves a decision of trying heat adhesive veneer again or a more veneer oriented adhesive ,oh and removing the other glue,again,any suggestions on glue? I use “tite bond 111 “for bow repair and it is incredibly strong but not sure if it is right for veneer applications,Robert ear,I have a couple of irons from the 50’s I use for various heat duties steaming dents,ironing veneer down( lol) these are good ones made before lawyers and plastic made irons junk they will burn the wood if you leave them too long.dangerous around the house but great for the shop.thanks everyone any other help is appreciated
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