I recently began cutting veneers as well as doing marquetry. Facinating stuff. Anyway, what I have done so far does not require anything difficult as far as clamping is concerned. I am going to be doing some larger pieces which will require more in the way of a press. I am not so much interested in a vaccuum press as I am interested in a more manual type.
I know that press screws are availabe , but at about 24.00 a pop, I was hoping to find a less expensive alternative. Anyone out there have set ups that you have made? Or any comments or experiences on doing marquetry? The type of marquetry is the “double bevel” method, it may also be called something else, I do not no. Anyway, any comments or advise is appreciated.
Replies
Rogue
You are doing something that I had planned to do some day.
I faced the same question about all the little $24 clamps it takes.
I did some crasy pondering about what else might work. I will probably be laughed at by the experts, however here it is.
Why not build the frame like the ones with the little screw clamps, only sandwich an innertube between two layers of say 1 1/4 plywood, put a few retainer straps on the sides to keep it within reasonable bounds.
Put the veneer work under the bottom and then slowly fill it with compressed air. If you keep it all within a few # of pressure it should put adequate pressure on the veneer to hold it etc. It might take some trial and error to get the pressure even.
The idea came to me when I had to jack up a big riding lawn mower, used the plywood and a large beach ball to raise it. Had a kid stabilised it until we could put blocks under it.
In any case, its an idea.
Curt
Actually , this is a cool concept. I would like to try it sometime and see what the outcome would be. Might even find another use for it as well. Thanks again.
This is the standard practice that goes back many years and uses clamps and wood from your shop. Low tech but very effective. Don't people read books anymore? You'll find this in Lincoln's book on veneer. He has two excellent books on veneer and marquetry. The curved caul insures pressure in the middle and across the panel. The veneered panel is sandwiched between two pieces of plywood or better yet mdf. Obviously put something the glue will not stick to in between as well. Not pictured are two beams that run perpindicular and support the clamping set up. One pair of cauls every 6" or so. About 1/8" of curve on a 30" maple caul will work depending on how thick and wide your cauls are. Making sure your cauls are equal and everything is lined up carefully you will have a perfectly flat panel. It works like a charm.
Rick
Thank you for the reply. I do use cauls for clamping in general, but I had not thought of using them in the manner you described. Thanks again. As I mentioned , veneering is new to me so I have alot to learn.
ROGUE2608
When I built my press I also thought the screws were pricey so I made my own. Build the press as you would for the factory made screws. To make screws buy some 3/4 all thread rod and cut it into whatever length required. (I used 12") Thread a nut on one end of each rod untill almost flush with the end and weld it on thus creating a large bolt. Bolts could be purchased if you have a source. Put a conical point on the other end that resembles a drill point. Make up some metal plates about 3 x 4 x 1/4 and drill a 7/8 hole through the middle of them. Weld a 3/4 nut on the plate centered over the hole. This plate can then be feastened to the underside of the top "bridge" pieces of the press. Drill a 3/4 hole down through the bridge pieces at each location you want a screw, fasten a plate to the underside centered on each of these holes, and thread the bolt down through from the top. Now make more plates with just a shallow drill point depression on them to put under each screw point. You can use a socket and ratchet wrench to tighten the screws when pressing or use an electric impact wrench as I do. I built three of these presses for about the price of one factory made screw and like them better cause I don't have to hand crank them to tighten them. Hope this description is clear. If you need to hire the welding done the whole setup will cost a bit more but not much.
Rich
The Professional Termite
I had been trying to figure out what you have just described. The part that eluded me was putting a bolt on a plate on the underside of the bridge. So simple, yet I could not figure it out. Between this and the response from rsl I will be able to progress without having to invest alot of cash.
Hello-
For the cost of 8 screws you could set up a vacuum system-
A 24" x 48" bag, vacuum generater and then when the bag is not needed
you have the vacuum system to use for clamping-
Robert
btw- the inner tube idea works very well - I've used it to make
curved arms on chairs, built up rear legs, seat backs, splats-
the list goes on and on-
I would second rsl's reply. At the boatyard where I worked we had a large torsion box that we used underneath with bowed cauls and several sheets of mdf above. we were able to lay up panels as large as 4x8 this way, or lots of little panels all at once. great system and cheap.
there are good directions for building a torsion box in taunton's workbench book.
Ian Kirby has a combo veneer press/bench in there that is pretty much just a masonite torsion box on legs, with laminated cauls used above. also detailed in the workbench book.
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