Replies

1. 
   PlaneWood | Nov 12, 2003 02:31am | #1

   I presume the surface is smooth.  Have you thought about brushing on a coat of 2 part, 24 hr set, epoxy directly over the drywall?  That would soak in and make a more sturdy surface.  After curing for 2 or 3 days, then do the contact cement.   Is this a horizontal surface??  A vertical surface might cause the epoxy to sag.  What's under the drywall compound?  Any possibility of expansion/ contraction??

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

2. 
   SgianDubh | Nov 12, 2003 03:11am | #2

   Hmm. Sounds like a recipe for failure to me, dovetail. I wouldn't touch it with your ten foot bargepole, let alone mine, ha, ha.

   I think I'd want cash upfront, and I might even offer a taillight guarantee on the job if I felt in a generous mood, ha, ha---ha, ha, ha. Slainte.

   Website

1. 
   dovetail3 | Nov 12, 2003 09:35pm | #3

   Thanks. Your comments were very helpful

   Ken

1. 
   SgianDubh | Nov 13, 2003 03:07am | #10

   I know they were. It just isn't going to work as you outlined, but Sophie was willing to go into some of the rudimentary details of why failure would be an inevitable consequence of your proposed methodology.  Sticking saw cut veneer on to a plastered base--- a wall(?) doctored up any way you like, with impact glue hasn't got a chance really.

   The veneer would buckle away from the plaster and likely fall off because impact glue hasn't got the strength to deal with the kind of movement that thick veneers exert, or the plaster would give way, or both. Whatever, you'd be onto a loser all the way through the job, and your later proposal of a crackle finish more in keeping with the plaster base sounds much more orthodox and do-able. 

   Now, if you'd proposed veneering a stable ground such as something like MDF or plywood with your sawcut veneer, with a suitable wood glue, such as PVA, urea formaldehide, hide glue(s), urea resorcinol, etc., which were then to be attached firmly to studs  fixed solidly to the wall (or whatever the structure is underneath) to counteract the obvious imbalance of the veneering job, that would have been a different kettle of fish, but you didn't outline that scenario. Slainte.

   Website

   Edited 11/12/2003 7:31:27 PM ET by Sgian Dubh

1. 
   dovetail3 | Nov 13, 2003 06:59am | #11

   Thanks. I'm convinced and will proceed accordingly

   Gratefully, Ken

3. 
   dovetail3 | Nov 12, 2003 09:42pm | #4

   Mike:

   The surface is vertical. I'm thinking perhaps I'll use yellow glue

   for the veneer and an air nailer to attach. I have a method to conceal the nail holes.

   Doe this sound like a safer process? I thought I'd  dilute some glue as a seal coat

   first. Your thoughts will be appreciated.

   Ken

1. 
   aksophie | Nov 12, 2003 10:33pm | #5

   Well you know it's the same old problem. You are trying to adhere a material that will want to move with the seasons onto a surface that is really pretty stable. If the veneer is only a few inches wide, then I'd say not problem. If you are trying to "panel"a room, then ......well, you better get ready for disappointment.

   If your drywall is painted, then you are gluing to paint and not to drywall.

1. 
   dovetail3 | Nov 12, 2003 11:47pm | #6

   How about if the veneer strips are about  5inches wide and

   at least double the normal thickness (since I'm bandsawing them

   myself) and nailing to the substrate. Will I have good results then?Ken

1. 
   aksophie | Nov 13, 2003 01:10am | #7

   The extra thickness veneer simply means that the wood will act more like a board than veneer. In other words, the material will cannot be contstrained by a glue bond. It sounds to me like you are trying to "panel" a wall with thin pieces of wood. My own experience has shown that wood in widths of 5 inches will move significantly with humidity and thus you will get either a gap between pieces or they will buckle.

   In any case, I don't think that drywall is a viable candidate for a stable veneer substrate, no matter what glue you use.

1. 
   dovetail3 | Nov 13, 2003 01:35am | #8

   Sophie:

   I'm betting you're correct. I think I'll do a crackle finish on the piece and

   forget the veneer

   Thanks

4. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Nov 13, 2003 01:39am | #9

   Any chance you can put a thin plywood veneer on first with liquid nails?  then contact your veneer to the plywood?   this would give you a better chance.