I am making an elliptical table top on to which I want to veneer a center ellipse surrounded by a band of another, contrasting wood veneer about an inch and a half wide. (The contrasting band is also the edge band, but that edge band is done separately.) My problem is, I can’t figure out how to apply the taped-up veneer layer (the center ellipse and the outer band) to the substrate so that the whole thing remains centered on the substrate. The center of the elliptical veneer layer must sit at the center of the substrate and the x and y axies of the veneer layer and the substrate must line up as well, but the whole application is blind.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance,
Drew
Replies
I think that we need to more about the process you plan to use. Glue typr? Hammer veneer? Vacuum press? Screw press? Please!
Cadiddlehopper
Sure.
I am using a Vacuum Press w/ Veneer glue to do the veneering. To make the elliptical veneer layer, I have cut a bookmatched pair to an elliptical shape that corresponds to the dimensions of the tabletop, less 1-1/2" all around. To that I have assembled a ring of pieces kind of like a starburst pattern with the center ellipse cut out. The two veneer sub-assemblies are taped together using veneer tape and blue tape. This is to be laminated onto an MDF substrate already prepared by edge banding with the same veneer as the outer ring.
I don't know what veneer glue is, but it seems that you could lay the veneer assembly on its face, lay the substrate on it, then glue a few small wood blocks to the veneer against the edge of the substrate in such a way that substrate and veneer can be assembled one way only. You might do this with double sided tape instead of glue. A few registration marks might help keep things aligned also. You probably would put veneer on bottom then butter the substrate and lay it on the veneer, close the bag, and pump away. If veneer must be on top, a little glue adjacent to the wood blocks would ensure that when you laid it on the substrate there would be plenty of glue in the joint. There will be a lot of hand cleanup because glue will undoubtedly stick the blocks to the edge. Work carefully! Angled faces on the blocks sounds like a good idea. They could guide the assembly together while reducing the surface area which could pick up glue.Good luck!!Cadiddlehopper
Special,
If your veneer is already near to the exact size, you can mark the axises (axes?) on both top and veneer so that you can align them after the glue is applied. Hold the veneer face in place with masking tape, or pin with small brads. Then tape your caul in place on top of the veneer, and put in the vacuum bag.
In future, you may want to consider applying the outer crossband after the top is veneered. Veneering the top onto an oversized substrate, then cutting the top and substrate to final size, in alignment with the axes of the veneer, will guarantee that things are centered and oriented the way you want. The edge can then be banded, and the perimeter of the top routed away for the crossbanding. That's how I've done in the past. More steps involved, but less anxiety.
Regards,
Ray Pine
What I've done in the past is to mark the major and minor axes of the ellipse on the substrate, carrying the marks over the edge and aligning my veneer joints with those marks. This, of course assumes you have a joint running along both the major and minor axes. If that is not the case, you could strike a square line off the joint you do have at the centre point of your ellipse and use that to register the missing axis.
The way I usually handle the glue-up is to spread the glue on the substrate and apply the veneer to it. At this point, I adjust the veneer until all the marks line up, secure it with a couple of veneer nails and put it in the press.
Hope this helps.
I don't disagree with Joinerswork nor Big Nat at all. I guessed that you have gone too far for their processes. Maybe not?
Cadiddlehopper
I built a similar table to what you are describing and hope my experiences can help along with all of the other responses. (see attached photos) I think the veneer for the top should be applied before final shaping of the outer edge. It is very difficult to control the amount of shift during the glue up process, so make the top veneer assembly and core a little oversize. Then trim the glued up top to size and apply the veneer edge banding last.
Another method, which is the one I used, is to apply solid wood edging to the core before applying the top veneer layer. Mine was about .75" wide to allow for shift. You will have to carefully work the top surface to eliminate steps in the joint between the edging and core. Then trim the assembly to final size. I used a template and router on mine. This approach also permits you to shape the outer edge.
A third option would be to apply solid edging after gluing on the top veneer layer. I avoided this because of the difficulty in obtaining a tight joint around an ellipse. I usually use this approach on rectangular shapes.
Good luck!
Tom
Thanks to all for your responses.
As a matter of fact, it's not too late to try anything, since my last effort, which prompted the question, was less than a total success. I like the idea of trimming the top after the veneer is applied.
Drew
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