Replies

1. 
   mapleman | Jun 09, 2009 02:09am | #1

   Gunk,

   Try http://www.veneersupplies.com or http://www.joewoodworker.com

   They are basically the same site, with plenty (and I mean plenty) of information on various ways to veneer, in addition to supplies (like glue and veneer) for sale.

   If I were you I would spend a few days looking over the site and then if you still have questions then fire away here. But I think all of the basics and most of the advanced stuff is covered on Joe's site.

    

   Good luck,

   Lee

1. 
   swannyww | Jun 09, 2009 10:07pm | #2

   i use master cement on smaller projects. It is a contact cement and is available at Marilu products 952-854-0140. buy the thinner as well. They make a container with a brush that is also great for brushing on the glue. I found this product being used at my in laws shoe/leather repair business. He uses it to attach leather to mdf for those who want leather wrapped furniture. He also uses it to glue all leather products including leather soles, so the glue is waterproof. I like it because it is fast and thin (add thinner as needed) so it doesn't leave any bulk under the veneer. I can immediately trim the piece without the veneer moving around after j rolling it. It does have a potent smell, but dissipates quickly.

2. 
   gb93433 | Jun 10, 2009 10:46pm | #3

   I would suggest that you start with some cheap veneer and try that first. Many will tell you that contact cement will work. Unless it is far different than I have ever seen it remains too flexible to hold the veneer in place. The glue you should use can be hide glue, aliphatic resin glue or any kind of glue that has good holding power over a long period of time. There are many glues you can use but so not use a glue that allows the veneer to move over time and move with temperature and humidity changes. Depending on the veneer you will want to make sure that you do not put too much glue on the veneer or substrate. Open pored woods will allow the glue to come through to the surface. You want just enough glue so that you can still see the wood through the glue.

3. 
   GregoryPaolini | Jun 11, 2009 02:21pm | #4

   Gurk,

   In my veneering class, one of the things I try to express about veneer is: It's wood.  We often look at veneer like it's wall paper, or some kind of foreign material, but it really is just thin wood - Just keep that in mind while your using it. 

   It wants to expand and contract, just like wood, so you need to balance panels.  And as far as glues, generally you'll want to use the glues that you would use for wood pojects.  I do 95% of my veneering with either Titebond 2, or DAP Plastic resin glue.  I use the latter for weird curvy things, or crazy grain.  Stay away from contact cement -

   If you want to "insure"your work, I'd look to take a class on veneering by a reputable instructor.  Or at the very least, buy Darryl Keil's "Working with Veneer" video. 

   Hope this helps

   Gregory Paolini

   http://www.GregoryPaolini.com

1. 
   Barrie2777 | Jun 12, 2009 05:26am | #5

   I have been doing vacuum press veneering for over fifteen years. I have always used a common wood glue. Presently I use Titebond III because of the longer open time required for some of the large panel I do. For small scale projects, TITEBOND II would be perfect. My Greene and Greene style cabinet can be seen at http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=46881.3