Veneer seam gaps

bsheeres | Posted in You're The Expert on February 7, 2008 08:10am

I do not own a vacuum press and want to veneer some 30”x30” panels so I read with interest the article titled “Easy Veneering with a Household Iron” FFW#108 (Sept/Oct 1994). I did a few tests using some 1/42 (non-figured) walnut. The adhesion was excellent and easy so I was quite excited. However the problem is that my tightly taped seams develop some very slight gaps after ironing (I also attempted the overlay and slice method instead of taping with terrible results BTW). Are gap free seams realistic using this method or is the heat just too much for the wood and seams? Is a vacuum press in my future? <!—-><!—-><!—->

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Replies

bsheeres | Feb 08, 2008 06:21am | #1
Update: Another test was done tonight using 1/42 curly maple with much better results. I achieved a section that was seamless followed by a section with a hairline "gap" (if you could even call it a gap; more of a fracture). The section with the fracture was predictable really as the tape was a bit dry and did not have full adhesion (it was not taped that way intentionally, but left that way as an experiment).

The significant difference, I believe, is that the maple was much flatter than the walnut to start with. While the walnut seams were taped tightly there was a bit of waviness perpendicular to the seam. It only stands to reason that when pressed down a gap would occur. A final test will be to use flatter pieces of walnut (of which I have none until next week).

I believe that with careful attention to setup the method is valid. Further testing will tell for sure. Hope springs eternal.

I am still curious about any experience or opinions on the subject.

Brian

bsheeres | Feb 10, 2008 03:15am | #2
Take 3: After several more rounds of testing with 1/42 curly maple, I've come to the conclusion that gap-less seams are not a realistic expectation with the iron method. My testing was not exhaustive so it may be possible, but with 1/42 walnut and maple some gaping is assured. ( my attempts by applying veneer to a wet glue substrate and pressing between cauls produced flawless seams with much less effort ). I think the iron method is valid and has some practical applications provided that your veneer is not cracked at all and you're not attempting seams.