Replies

1. 
   agerner | Jan 18, 2007 10:58pm | #1

   If you can get it in your area, try solid core stock.
   This is solid strips of timber, with 2 layers of thick veneer on top.
   Here in Australia we can get Poplar core stock, otherwise known as Blockboard.
   I have been veneering onto it for a wile now and it does stay flat.

   Visit my web site at:

   http://www.antongerner.com.au

1. 
   Rich14 | Jan 19, 2007 12:51am | #2

   Anton,

   Wow!

   Beautiful site. Beautiful work!

   Rich

2. 
   Archibald | Jan 22, 2007 11:48pm | #6

   Does the dimensional Stability of Blockboard compare to MDF or Plywood? Do you leave expansion gaps?

1. 
   agerner | Jan 23, 2007 01:58am | #7

   No need to leave any gaps. It is stable, similar to plywood.
   Visit my web site at:

   http://www.antongerner.com.au

1. 
   LeeGrindinger | Jan 23, 2007 08:53pm | #9

   Here in the US it's called lumber core plywood and it's a good idea for this application.Lee

2. 
   LeeGrindinger | Jan 23, 2007 08:57pm | #11

   The slats that make up the core of this product (lumbercore plywood) have small gaps between them so each slat has room to expand and contract. Each slat is fairly narrow, only a couple of inches wide so the veneer to which it's glued can withstand the movement.Lee

3. 
   mwenz | Jan 23, 2007 08:47pm | #8

   This type of stock is a good product. Not always available around me.

   It is pre-made cross-banded cores. I usually make my own, though I would try harder to find it already made up for a surface as large as a desk.

   Cross-banded cores can be as simple as 1" x 1" [or larger] pieces cut from a very stable wood, in my case usually Makore. I typically cut them from flat sawn wood, rotated 90 deg. to basically create quarter-sawn pieces, glued together with epoxy.

   After flattening the resultant panels and thicknessing them either I will veneer bending ply in two layers, 90 degrees to each other or simply a layer of 3-ply vacuum pressed to each side. Once dry and processed I then apply edge veneer, trim and apply the face veneer.

   Take care, Mike

2. 
   sapwood | Jan 19, 2007 01:14am | #3

   There is a product called Armor-ply. This is plywood with the face being mdf. It has the strength and screw holding of ply and the smooth face of mdf for veneer. I find it to be a very nice product. You may see it as having every disadvantage possible (mdf and ply!).

3. 
   Kaleo | Jan 19, 2007 05:47am | #4

   You can try moisture resistant chipboard. But I would suspect thta if your client doesn't want MDF then they won't want Chipboard. But it's worth a try.

   Kaleo

   http://www.kalafinefurniture.blogspot.com

4. 
   donkondra1 | Jan 19, 2007 05:56am | #5

   Greetings,

   I've had good success with either "baltic" birch ply or applecore? (sp) which I believe is a made in America version of the oversea's stuff.

   More ply's than regular plywood, no voids and a veneer ready face on both sides.

   Both products that I have used are exactly the stated thickness, across the whole sheet :)

   Cheers, Don

    

   Don Kondra - Furniture Designer/Maker

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/18/2007 10:00 pm by donkondra1

1. 
   LeeGrindinger | Jan 23, 2007 08:55pm | #10

   It's Appleply, not applecore. It's a higher quality plywood that is free of voids, not free of patches, just free of voids.Lee

5. 
   jackplane | Jan 23, 2007 10:54pm | #12

   I think your client could use a little educating by you. The customer is not always right. That's why they hire pros.

    MDF, and most plys, is the best substrate because of inherent stability. If the customer is worried about the edges, then those should be solid stock where possible.

   Expert since 10 am.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/23/2007 4:28 pm ET by jackplane