Replies

1. 
   KeithNewton | Dec 27, 2007 06:52pm | #1

   I don't think I would do this. You don't state what glue you are using, but it would likely be weaker than a good bond of veneer to substrate.

   There is an old turning trick of gluing craft paper between parts before turning thing that you want to separate without loosing the saw kerf. Craft paper is easy to tear between its top and bottom surface. This is the same thing, and the thicker the veneer, the more likely the problem will occur. So forget about tape print through, this is not the big issue.

2. 
   DonC | Dec 27, 2007 07:36pm | #2

   One side only. Use a hand held wood roller on the tape after laying it down. This extra pressure insures tight joints. This wood roller is the same type sold at wallpaper stores and/or veneer outlets. Most guys don't use the roller but if you do, you will never have joints seperate. The tape is still easy to scrape off when the glue is cured.

1. 
   Ry | Dec 27, 2007 08:03pm | #4

   I agree with every one else, I would not tape both sides.  I do glue the joints which gives the same result with no tape.   Turn over the taped sheet of veneer and apply a tiny bead of glue to the back of the joints (untaped side) and then roll out the joints with the glue.  If you keep rolling  for a minuted or so, the glue  becomes tacky and any spots that were seperated will bond togther. It works great on all long grain to long grain veneer joints, and you never have to worry about having one peice overlaping the other when you glue them up. As expected it does not work that great for end grain joints. 

1. 
   Bioman | Dec 27, 2007 08:22pm | #5

   Great reply guys. 

    

   RY, that is a unigue idea, I think I will give it a shot.  Part of why I originally wanted to tape both sides was for ease of handling and storing until I am ready (I am doing four large panels).  I think this approach will meet the need.

3. 
   GaryW | Dec 27, 2007 07:47pm | #3

   Don and Keith are correct - you could easily sand through your thin veneer if you put tape between the substrate and veneer. Put it only on the surface.

   Gary W

   gwwoodworking.com

4. 
   Kaleo | Dec 28, 2007 01:09am | #6

   Bioman-

   The way that I veneer is on the glue side I just use regular masking tape and I bring the joint together. Making sure that the joint is tight and together. Then flip to the show side of the veneer and use the veneer tape and tape it up. Then remove the masking tape from the back and glue to your substrate.

   After the glue has cured or dried I use a slightly dampened sponge and lightly wet the veneer tape and scrape it off. This will raise the grain of the veneer slightly, but you still have to sand. Veneer is thin, so sanding off the tape might out you at risk of sanding through. Hope this helps.

   Kaleo

   http://www.kalafinefurniture.blogspot.com

1. 
   Bioman | Dec 28, 2007 04:22am | #7

   Thanks Kaleo, that's just what I'll try

2. 
   KeithNewton | Dec 28, 2007 04:28am | #8

   I quit using veneering tape maybe about eight years ago. Now I just use drafting dots about 3" apart. They are only about 3/4" diameter circles, and are quick and easy to apply and to get off. Since I do most of my veneering using epoxy as the adhesive, I can use more than would be reasonable with other types, so the squeeze / bleed- through, fills the joint, and any open pores without and detrimental side effects.

1. 
   Kaleo | Dec 28, 2007 10:44am | #9

   I've never used epoxy for veneering, how does the bleed through affect the finish? I would think you would have some sort of problems. I typically use hand rubbed oil finishes, so I would think that the bleed through would be a big problem? Interested to know what your experiences has been.Kaleohttp://www.kaleosworkshop.com

1. 
   KeithNewton | Dec 28, 2007 12:08pm | #10

   Yes it does bleed through, but if it is scraped off of the face before final cure, it is not too hard to deal with. However if you wait until final hardness is achieved, you run the risk of sanding through the other wood before you get through the random patches, which may be as hard as plastic laminate. I had one project about twenty years ago using wenge, that I left too long, and didn't get it sanded good, and could see it when I started to apply the sealer, but I learned a lesson, and have been more careful since.However, it does offer some other advantages. You can control the open time by choice of hardeners, so you don't have to rush to get everything glued up and in the bag, making it easier to handle big projects. It requires some heat to cure, so this time of year, I could spread glue all day in a cool shop, then when I get the bag sealed, turn the heat on to start the cure. My shop is pretty big and hard to get as warm, so I usually just drape a tarp over the work, then put a space heater under a crude tent to speed the cure. Also it acts as a lubricant between the plys which is nice if you are doing curved work, which I tend to do a fair amount of. It also has bridging capacity, and sets up rigid. Also it does not change the MC of the wood, and ends up waterproof.I offered to do an article on this to FWW many years ago, but never go traction with them, so I have given up even offering ideas to them.