Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Nov 25, 2002 10:09pm | #1

   My only thought is to not expect a response in four hours. Many Knots readers don't check in until they get home from work. The ones who have the experience and knowledge you're looking for may not even check in every day.

1. 
   ScottInMadtown | Nov 25, 2002 10:37pm | #2

   Thank you,

   I apoligize for my lack of respect during the whole Faxing of FWW articles post that I had earlier.

   Also, I was wondering if my initial post on this subject made sense of if I should reword it.

   Scott

2. 
   SgianDubh | Nov 26, 2002 08:06am | #3

   It's purely an aesthetic choice on your part, or it's determined by historical precedent if you're knocking out a reproduction, Scott(?) There are plenty of precedents for inlaying a decorative piece of veneer or a marquetry item into a bigger solid wood field. Large table tops with a shell and elliptical stringing spring to mind for example. Solid drawer fronts with swags and the like are another example. Do you have any books on veneering as a resource?

   Whatever the wee spat was that seems to have occurred between you and Uncy Dunc-- if I'm reading it correctly-- that caused the deleted message, I guess I'm one of those checking out the forum after I got in from work-- it's 11 pm here, and I'm just in from beating wood to submission, ha, ha. Mind you, I did stop in at the local bar for a swift pint or two on the way home. Okay, I really left work at about 9 pm. Your original question was clear enough to me. Slainte.

   Some stuff I've made.
1. 
   UncleDunc | Nov 26, 2002 10:00am | #4

   Every now and then I see someone post a question and then come back an hour or two or four later and post another message wondering why the first one hasn't been answered yet, so I try to tell them why that expectation isn't realistic, before they go away feeling rejected. I did not intend to start a spat, wee or otherwise. It looks like the next time I do this, I should start my message with "We're not ignoring you." I'm always tempted to start with "This is not a chat room," but I can see how that might be provocative.

   Edited 11/26/2002 2:01:02 AM ET by Uncle Dunc

1. 
   SgianDubh | Nov 26, 2002 10:41am | #5

   I've seen that too, Uncle Dunc-- no responses in just a few hours, and a somewhat aggrieved, 'Can someone help,' follow up. It happens, and may have happened in this case-- I don't know, I didn't see it because I was, well--at work. Anyway. No big deal. You and I have both seen that before. Well, at least Scott got an opinion, even if it was only mine. Slainte.Some stuff I've made.

2. 
   ScottInMadtown | Nov 26, 2002 04:41pm | #6

   I only posted the second message, because USUALLY I do get responses pretty quickly.  This just happened to be the one time that I didn't.

   Thanks Guys

2. 
   ScottInMadtown | Nov 26, 2002 05:11pm | #7

   Sgian,

   I'm not creating a reproduction.  It's of my own design.  See attached JPEG.  The side panels will be veneer.  Those should be fairly easy.  I want to use the same veneer on the center portion of drawer front and leave a border of walnut all around the front.

   Is one method easier than the other do you think?  I do have two books on Veneering.  I have Veneering, Marquetry and Inlay by Tauton Press and I have Veneering a Foundation Course by Mike Burton.  Both seem to be excellent books.

   I guess from what I've seen, most drawer fronts that have a border, have a border of veneer that is mitered at the corners.  If I wanted to do it the other way I would have to rout out that large area in the middle of the face and then get my veneer to fit perfectly in that space.  I'll probably be buying lots of backer veneer to practice with..LOL

   Scott

1. 
   SgianDubh | Nov 27, 2002 08:01am | #9

   I don't know if this would fit into your plans, Scott, but you could make the main body of your field out of a man made board such as MDF, and attach a border of solid wood mitred at the corners. Leave this fore-edge or lipping a bit proud and plane it down to about the thickness of your planned veneer inset part. Then veneer onto the main body of your panel/drawer front (of MDF[?]) up to the inside edge of the fore-edge, and then get it all flush. Doing it this way would leave the border grain following the perimeter of the drawer, and this might be easier than routing out a very shallow mortise from a solid wood drawer front.

   If this doesn't suit, I'd suggest you veneer the whole front (in preference to routing out a large field)and the grain of the border can be perpendicular to the edges and mitred at each corner, or the grain can be parallel to the edges, again perhaps mitred at each corner. Slainte.Some stuff I've made.

3. 
   ScottInMadtown | Nov 26, 2002 05:13pm | #8

   Here's the JPEG