Replies

1. 
   mcecala | Feb 15, 2010 12:19pm | #1

   When veneer gets to 1/8", it starts to act like real lumber and will distort. Keep the thickness to 1/16" and veneer both sides.

   You can use Titebond, the open time will force you to work quickly. Urea formaldehyde will give you a longer working time and require heat to cure faster. Never use contact cement. http://www.veneersupplies.com has well priced adhesives that will perform the way you want. Their cold press veneer glue is very stable and has less creep than Titebond.

   mdf of any thickness is the way to go, stable and cheap. You can use cauls and clamp, no real need for a veneer press. It does make multiple glue ups easier and quicker though.

2. 
   frostman | Feb 16, 2010 08:53am | #2

   Thanks. MDF is a good idea - I forgot about it - but, is it still necessary to apply the veneer to both sides if I use MDF? Thanks for the lead on the veneer website.

1. 
   Westchester | Feb 16, 2010 01:45pm | #3

   If you're reducing the
   If you're reducing the thickness of the veneer and the MDF is anchored down - I would say you don't have to veneer both sides -

   However generally it is a better method when veneering to do both sides.

   SA

1. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 16, 2010 08:19pm | #4

   And if I said venner just one side and sal the back and egges from moisture> Especiallay the edges?

2. 
   sapwood | Feb 16, 2010 11:32pm | #5

   Yes... veneer both sides. And I usually prefer Armor-ply as a substrate.

3. 
   mcecala | Feb 17, 2010 08:23am | #6

   Always veneer both sides. Even 1/42" veneer will curve mdf.

   Edge treatment is optional. There are many ideas for edges, a search will give you good ideas.

   Another substrate option is Medex, an mdf made with moisture resistant glue that stays stable during glue up. This is a good idea if you are clamping. The addition of moisture in glue to mdf can make it curl.