Replies

1. 
   RMillard | Jan 19, 2007 01:43pm | #1

   Phil,

   The  stringing can be done in at least two ways. The first is to buy pre-cut veneer strips and the second is to saw your own stringing. My first project was done using pre-cut stringing, but I went to sawn stringing, because it is a little easier to work with ( but takes time to make), and I had more choices as far as spices and size.

   Either way, the process is the same. Lay down the central panel, and while still damp from the hammer veneering process, use a cutting gauge to trim away the veneer where the stringing and crossbanding will go. If I have time, I like to let the center panel dry over night, and then glue down the stringing; if time is short, I place the piece in front of a fan for an hour or so, to speed the curing. I hammer the stringing on, just as if it were veneer. Let any excess glue gel and scrape it away, in preparation for crossbanding.

   I cut the crossband veneer, and mark it so I can be sure that all pieces go on in the same orientation (some species have considerable reflectivity and if this weren't done the color shift would end up being distracting). As with the center panel, I like to let the stringing dry for a while, but the fan will speed things up. Hammer the crossband on, being sure to hammer only with the grain. Depending on the species and the width, I like to miter the crossband with a chisel, but sometimes this won't work, with satinwood in particular being too brittle and the point almost always breaks off. For those situations where the chisel won't work, I use a thin sharp knife, working from the long point of the miter to the short point. Sometimes on wide crossbanding, I'll apply a strip of veneer tape to hold the miter together, but this usually isn't necessary.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/19/2007 4:02 pm ET by RMillard

1. 
   [email protected] | Jan 19, 2007 04:56pm | #2

   Rob,

   I was hoping to hear from you. Thanks for the guidance. Is there a typical width for the stringing? I would think that the width of the stringing being so small that it would have a great chance of breaking when hammering it on. The stringing that I see in this application looks to be ~ 1/16 - 1/8 wide. Is that about right?

   -Phil    

1. 
   RMillard | Jan 20, 2007 03:00am | #7

   Phil,

   Most of the stringing I've used is around a 1/16", and more often less. I've made several pieces, where I've used 1/16" wide stringing and wished I'd have used something more narrow, because it looked too heavy.

   I've never broken a piece of straight stringing, while hammering on it, so I don't think that will be a problem.

   Rob Millard

    

2. 
   mapleman | Jan 19, 2007 07:06pm | #3

   Hi Rob,

   Big fan of your work. Just wanted to let you know the link you posted at the bottom of your reply doesn't work. Maybe federal is mis-spelled? Just thought I would let you know.

   Lee

1. 
   RMillard | Jan 20, 2007 12:07am | #5

   Lee,

    

   My spelling is atrocious (I had to look that word up). Thanks for telling me, and for your comments.

   Rob Millard

2. 
   tom77 | Jan 19, 2007 08:15pm | #4

   There is another way, to which you alluded.  You can assemble the entire veneer skin and then apply it to the core.  Paul Schurch sells a good basic video on this process, and demonstrates exactly what you are describing.  My experience is only with this process and I use either urea formaldehyde (unibond 800) or PVA from Joe Woodworker.  I would like to try the hide glue in the manner described by Mr. Millard because there are a lot of situations that can be more effectively addressed in that manner.

   Good luck, Tom.

1. 
   user-161113 | Jan 20, 2007 12:28am | #6

   Lee--The web site worked for me. Thought you might try again.

   Rob--Beautiful work. Blows my mind.

   Billy B.