I am planing to build a desk out of teka. The top ( 3′ by 6′) will consist of a veneered MDF panel surrounded by solid wood(5 inches wide board). The veneer for the top face will be in the form of a chessboard with the 4 inch squares of teka running in cross directions. I am in the designing stage so all the figures are aproximations. For the bottom face I will use the same wood without care for the figure or surface quality or blemishes.
I intend to resaw the veneer myself to take advantage of some very beatiful pieces of teka that are in the shop since long time ago. I expect them to come out being 3/32′ thick judging from past similar jobs of much less importance.
My problem is that I don’t own a vacuum press or any other equipment big enough to handle the whole desktop at a time. I am not very familiar with the use of hide glue but I will be glad to learn. Also I have thought of the technique of spreading ordinary glue, let it dry and lay the veneer using an iron to reactivate the glue. But I don’t know if the results will be satisfactory.
I am an intermediate amateur with a well (normal) equiped and not very large shop. I would appreciate your help and advise, specially if I am completely wrong.
Thank you very much in advance
Justo
Replies
What is "teka"? Teak?
Sorry. Yes. English is not my native laguage; I am a spaniard. I usually review very carefully everything that I write in english but it is very difficult not to make a mistake.
JustoMadrid
As you suggested,I'd spread thinned wood glue to both surfaces,let dry, and iron on your veneered pieces. This is a forgiving technique since you can slightly shift the pieces into alignment.And 3/32" allows some sanding afterwards.
Another technique is to apply weights throughout the top.
Justo,
I'm a dedicated hide glue user, but I'm not sure this would be the way to go, since I don't know how it would bond to MDF.
I have never tried the hot press method using PVA glues, but it sounds a little unpredictable to me. In your case, I'd even been more hesitant to use this method, since teak is oily and can be difficult to glue.
I made pairs of clamping cauls out of ash, with a series of holes in them to accept pieces of threaded rod, to apply clamping pressure. These cauls are planed with a camber so they apply pressure evenly over their entire length. These make respectable veneering clamps, although they are slow and cumbersome. In use, you use another sheet of MDF on each side to spread the pressure, and the cauls should not be placed more than 6" apart. Also be sure to put some kind of release sheet between the face side of the veneer and the caul, or you'll glue more together than you ever wanted to. The only glues practical with this method are plastic resin and liquid hide glue. I've used both, but the plastic resin only once, so I?m not in a position to offer any real advice on its use.
You shouldn't apologize for your English, it far better than most, whose only language is English ( mine included).
Rob Millard
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