I have a sort of sunburst pattern going here with these drawer fronts. Naturally I’m going to veneer as one panel, both sides, with the same veneer thickness’s. The question I’ve been wondering is what material to use.
Typically for this I’d use 3/4 or 7/8 MDF, veneer both sides and edge band, but I’m hoping for more natural edges, maple specifically, and don’t want to go about edge banding each drawer front. I was considering making a 3/4 maple panel, possibly with sliding dovetails planed flat, and then applying this veneer pattern on both sides, and afterwards cutting to drawer front sizes and screwing them to the drawers. Only reason for this is the natural maple edges that will come out after the cuts are made.
Wondering if this will work, or if I’ll see some wood movement, or if anyones had issues with veneer lifting from soft maple before, and if I should just pursue MDF and edge banding.
Replies
How wide is the panel? Where are you using the sliding dovetails?
Panels about 60” x 30” drawer fronts cut out of that wouldn’t be bigger that 10” x 20”
Not sure where I’d put the dovetails, they could go on both sides of the panel since they get covered up. Haven’t used them enough to know when and where to put them or if they’re even needed for this
The dovetails wouldn’t be substantial enough to do much in my opinion. Though I don’t know how much they’re needed. How are you pressing this? I like hammer veneering as you can quickly size both sides with glue in the same sitting which can help reduce movement.
If you are really concerned, using stavecore and crossbanding is good, but you’ll still want to finish it asap.
The shop I’m at has access to a heat press, so the entire sheet can be done in two presses within 30 minutes. Warping from a backer not going on quick enough isn’t an issue usually with it
I use edge glued sugar pine for the substrate of veneered drawer fronts. The top and bottom edge bands are part of the glue up, and then the whole piece is run through the planer to get a flush glue surface. I like a 1/8" drawer bead, and I make the edge bands about 1/4" to 3/8" wide so the bead is set entirely in the edge band. I prefer resin glue when the veneer is cross grain to the substrate. I cut the dovetails right into the veneered pine front. Usually, I make the front a bit thick so the drawer bead on the ends has a wider shoulder to sit against and doesn't lap the dovetails. I think this is in line with traditional practice, and I've never had a problem with this method.