Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Jul 08, 2007 05:50pm | #1

   Hi Sparky,

   You don't have to buy a veneer hammer. 

   1) You can clamp with cauls ( can be the offcut you sawed off when making the curved pieces, or a piece or two of bending plywood) to distribute the clamping pressure, and plenty of clamps; using nearly any kind of glue you want. Hot hide glue gels as it cools, so it will make you work fast, and you ought to have the cauls heated.  A sheet of copper, well warmed, under the cauls will help keep the hot glue liquid, til the clamps are all on, and tightened.

   2) You can make your own veneer hammer.  A block of hardwood (I used maple) of the appropriate size, into which is set a wooden handle, and a strip of something to apply the pressure to the veneer.  Can be metal (brass, bronze or aluminum- I used aluminum, using iron can blacken some veneers, but have seen at least one commercially available hammerhead of iron) or a hard plastic, like lexan, or plexiglas. The strip is set edgewise into the head, and the exposed edge should be smoothed and rounded over so there are no sharp edges.  Liquid hide glue sets too slowly to be hammered down, you must use hot hide glue.  I've always used the granular, I don't know what the difference is, if any, between the granular and pearl types.  Your first time hammer veneering- or veneering in general, I suggest that you practice first on something other than your project.  There's a learning curve involved with veneering, it's not as easy as, say, painting by numbers.

   Ray

1. 
   user-172496 | Jul 10, 2007 02:24am | #4

   Well !!!! I want to thank you for all you help. I am making this table and I am taking my time, a little fancy work on it, but as I said slow, slow. I will post a picture when finished.

   But don't hold you breath, as I said I am taking my time.

   Jack

1. 
   joinerswork | Jul 10, 2007 02:37pm | #9

   sparky,

   As long as the bill collectors aren't knocking on the door, no reason to hurry.  It ain't a race, is it? 

   Enjoy,

   Ray

2. 
   AdamCherubini | Jul 09, 2007 02:23pm | #2

   I've only veneered one project!

   I think Rob Millard is one of the most knowledgeable woodworkers on the subject. He recommends a uhmw hammer. You can buy uhmw at Lee Valley in blocks.

   I made a traditional 18th c style hammer. Its a block of wood (beech) with a 1/8" thick piece of brass let into it. The handle is threaded (1" wood threads). Whatever you do, I think you want something hard that won't scratch the veneer and that can be cleaned. So UHMW makes sense for this application.

   I used hot hide glue and an old sad iron. Despite Rob's advice, I tried lubricating the top surface with glue. I liked the squishy feel of it. The problem was using the sad iron. I used my wife's coveted parchment paper (a non-stick paper for baking) when I used the iron.

   My experience was that, unlike normal woodworking where each project offers new challenges, veneering gives you every possible challenge every time you do it. Everything that can go wrong, seems to go wrong, every time. So be prepared with a few books, magazine articles and, if possible, take a class with Rob Millard!

   The only curved work I've done is cockbeading. Based on that experience, I'd skip the caul. That may be easier for more experienced folks like Ray Pine. With a veneer hammer, you can kinda screw with it until you get what you want. I think that will make things a little easier for you. With my project, I could have veneered for an hour or 10 minutes and be left with the exact same result. You just keep reheating the glue and moving stuff around. There's no clear indication when you're done. With a caul, you put the clamps on and you're done. Nothing more to do.

   I think this makes veneering the perfect hobby. Only got 10 minutes before dinner? Looking of an afternoon to kill? VENEER!

   Adam

1. 
   user-172496 | Jul 10, 2007 02:59am | #5

   Thanks Adam I will let you know how it worked out, but it will be a while.

   Jack.

3. 
   CharlieStanford | Jul 09, 2007 04:40pm | #3

   The project you described sounds perfect for hammer veneering.  It's chief advantage is speed and not having to build bloody cauls and forms.   Depending on how you shaped your workpieces, you may not have offcuts available to be used as a caul/former.  This may be especially true if you work wood mostly with hand tools.

   You can buy a decent hammer (brass faced) for $60.  Spend the extra money for brass.

   http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6043

   Please read this disclaimer which is an integral part of my post:  Do not copy, print, or use my posts without my express written consent. My posts are not based on fact. My posts are merely my written opinions, fiction, or satire none of which are based on fact unless I expressly state in writing that a statement is a fact by use of the word "fact." No one was intended to be harmed in the making of this post.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/9/2007 9:42 am by ThePosterFormerlyKnownAs

1. 
   user-172496 | Jul 10, 2007 03:06am | #6

   Thanks Who ever you are ( I am sure you must be a lawyer ) I have never heard of a reply on any forum I have ever been on before.

   Jack

4. 
   RMillard | Jul 10, 2007 04:44am | #7

   Sparky,

   I can't add much to what has already been said. 

   There is one thing, and that is you can't use liquid hide glue to hammer veneer. Hammer veneering requires a glue that goes from liquid to sticky very quickly, which is of course what hot hide glue does.

   I have only used the granular glue; the pearl sets up more slowly and while this is said to be an advantage, I can see it actually being a hindrance.

   If you go to my website, and click on Detailed Construction Articles, you will find some information on hammer veneer.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

5. 
   chairmannz | Jul 10, 2007 05:01am | #8

   Hello Sparky,
   I am in the process of veneering 40 sqm or i think that is 360 sq foot.
   i am making 1 display cabinet 1 storage unit that fits on a long table (8'x3') and one desk.
   The hand veneering is to slow for that and I use several electric blankets to warm up the timber and ply I use for pressing down, I also use thick pvc 1-mm so it did not stick where it shouldn't.
   This works very well for me and I can do 2 pressings a day on the big stuff.
   I tried it doing that by hand and it was to much of a hassle.
   made my own veneer hammer all in timber you do not have to use coper or other metal.
   It is fun to do.
   Greetings from down under Bernhard.