Replies

1. 
   user-210490 | Jul 19, 2022 05:06pm | #1

   It's always a good idea to veneer both the front and the back of the panel even if it will go into a frame. Doesn't have to be the same type of veneer.

2. 
   stuafox | Jul 19, 2022 05:53pm | #2

   Ditto, it is best to apply veneer to both sides of a panel. This will reduce the likelihood of cupping or twist in your panel before you put it in your frame. If the back side isn’t a show side any veneer of similar thickness will work.

3. 
   Jkatzowitz | Jul 19, 2022 07:15pm | #3

   Warping issues aside, I assume when the doors are open you'll see the back of the door panels. Why wouldn't you veneer that surface as well?

4. 
   ScoWworks | Jul 19, 2022 07:34pm | #4

   Thank you all for the info, I wasn’t wanting to veneer the interior surface due to lack of material, and the design of the tool cabinet is such that there is a second swing out door on the inside of the cabinet doors that covers the backside of this panel most of the time.

   I was just wondering if anyone had successfully veneered one surface of a panel once it is captured inside of its frame?

   Just my own uneducated curiosity, I have heard of the rules when it comes to veneering both sides at the same time, but that has normally been in regards to a panel separate from its frame (at least from what I have seen on the internet)

1. 
   john_c2 | Jul 20, 2022 10:48am | #9

   I've never done it, but have always wondered. I've also wondered about putting veneer on plywood with the grain as opposed to across the grain. Maybe some day I'll experiment.

5. 
   rob_ss | Jul 20, 2022 03:51am | #5

   I can't help with enough experience. I have successfully applied 1/4" facings to 3/4" ply with no problems.

   I have also tried and failed to find any evidence that there is a real need for ply to have an odd number of plies, or that veneering one side of a substrate makes any difference, but it is a difficult question to get a search engine to interpret usefully. I have seen many solid wood pieces veneered on one side in antiques with no apparent warpage issues and others which have warped, though that has always been in line with the expected warping of the board based on its rings.

   I suspect that ply has odd numbers of plies because it allows both the faces to have the grain in the same direction rather than for stability, or because for some reason odd numbers are easier to make or perhaps even that people think odd numbered plywood is higher quality so it's better to make it that way rather than explain the alternate reason.
   If the wood you use for the veneer is stable and equilibrated, and thin relative to the substrate, in my inexpereinced opinion, it should cause no problems.
   If anyone has seen good empirical evidence supporting the "thou shalt always veneer both faces" mantra, I should very much like to see it.

6. 
   gulfstar | Jul 20, 2022 07:58am | #6

   I have glued thick veneers on plywood to make countertops and desktops and they stayed flat before being screwed to the frame. It would seem more practical however that the panels be glued before being assembled in a frame .

7. 
   jake_w | Jul 20, 2022 08:00am | #7

   I would veneer the panel before you install it in the door. It will look better and be much easier to construct. You could add the veneer to the panel after the door is constructed, but it will be difficult to get the veneer to fit perfectly in the door.

   Rob_SS brings up many good points on plywood, veneer, and substrates. I have no empirical evidence on veneering both faces of a panel, but I have lots of experience. I have tried to veneer one side multiple times and I have had severe warpage at times and no warpage other times. I always veneer both sides of plywood because I don't want to deal with problems and remake pieces. With a panel in a frame, you should be fine veneering only one side. If I can see both sides of a panel, I veneer both sides, feel free to use different species. I have had warpage on 1/4" and 1/2" plywood and even on 3/4" MDF. This is why I just plan on applying veneer to both sides. The glue type also affects this.

   As for hardwoods, I only veneer one side and this is really only on drawer fronts, which have dovetails to keep things flat.

   Not every panel will warp, but nothing is more frustrating than having a panel with beautiful veneer turn into a potato chip after 2 days. Trying to fit some of these into a door frame can be a pain.

   If this is your first veneer attempt, have at applying it to only one side. Everyone who does this enough has applied veneer only to one side. It will probably work just fine. I veneer both sides for many reasons, not just panel stability and I design for this and purchase materials with this in mind.

   Good luck and post some pictures when you are done.

1. 
   ScoWworks | Jul 20, 2022 08:07am | #8

   Thank you for the info, and honest experience. I haven’t started my tool cabinet yet but when I do I will I will be sure to post some more info/ photos.

   I’m sure it will be like all the other projects in my life thus far and I will have to think on it for 6 months before I finally get the chance to start working on it.

8. 
   DRBWWing | Jul 20, 2022 11:16am | #10

   It the panel is 1/4" it will be ok in a sturdy frame.

9. 
   ScoWworks | Jul 20, 2022 12:09pm | #11

   The sub-straight would be 1/2in. Ply and set in to the frame with a 1/4in. Groove.

   Sorry should have had that info in the original post.

   Thanks again for all the info 👍

10. 
    flyfisher111 | Jul 24, 2022 09:43pm | #12

    I built Pekovich's hanging tool cabinet and veneered the door panels with walnut, as I wanted some contrast against the maple.

    I veneered only 1 side of the plywood and it has been just fine for 10 years.

    It's shown at: https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/260962

1. 
   ScoWworks | Jul 24, 2022 10:05pm | #13

   Thank you for the info, that tool cabinet looks great!

   What hinges did you use?

   I noticed they are not the ball hinges used in the video series

1. 
   flyfisher111 | Jul 25, 2022 01:56pm | #15

   Simple 3" x 2" flat hinges form HD. I was interested in strong hinges, not looks.

   Would love to build another, so I could arrange it differently, to accommodate the additional planes I have acquired since.

11. 
    msdr | Jul 25, 2022 12:33pm | #14

    I never hear glue choices discussed when one-sided veneering is in question. I suspect that water-based glues like PVA impart moisture to the substrate and contribute to warping in one-sided veneer projects. But this is just my theory, I have not tested anything. I'd be curious to know if anyone who has had success with one-sided veneering used epoxy, PVA, Hide Glue, etc. I'd think epoxy would form a very rigid bond and warp less. I find it hard to believe that a very thin slice of wood veneer is responsible for warping a panel, I think it must have something to do with the choice of glue.

1. 
   flyfisher111 | Jul 25, 2022 02:12pm | #16

   I would agree with that; especially when thin (1/2" or less) plywood or solid is involved. several years ago, I veneered some 1/4" plywood panels using shop-dissolved hide glue and they did show a little warp. But....the next day they were back as flat as they began, so I chalked it up to the moisture in the glue.

2. 
   rob_ss | Jul 26, 2022 01:24am | #17

   I have thought that. I don't do a lot, but when I do, it's PVA I use.