I am trying to restore some gunstocks that were made of plywood. I did a few years ago with spray on contact cement and it worked well. I need to do some more (100 sets) and I just can’t get anything to stick. Here is what they look like.
http://s3.amazonaws.com/finewoodworking.s3.tauntoncloud.com/app/uploads/2019/04/28132830/l1a1hg.jpg
I have degreased them and wipe them with acetone and give them about 10 minutes before I spray them with contact cement.
What am I doing wrong…..?
Also, this may be subject to heat, is there a better glue or even epoxy to use?
I clamp them up with surgical tubing with lots of wraps and have a block that goes against each half to give support to the glue.
Replies
Are these half sections?. can you vacuum press these??
They are half sections but I don't have a vacum press.
Have you thought about sand-ag pressing and using a more permanent adhesive, such as resorcinol formaldehyde?
Scrit
I am interested in playing with the resorcinol formaldehyde since the others do not seem to hold and if they do are too heat sensitive. Where do I get it? How is it used and applied?
Michael
I am in the UK, not the USA, so it is a little difficult for me to answer that one. I buy my glue direct from a fairly local manufacturer over here, however I did take a look at he glue page on the Joe Woodworker site (http://www.joewoodworker.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=40&osCsid=bba286b48709f45468ae6b3df328cc18 ) and they sell Unibond 800 a "modified urea resin formaldehyde" and PPR Urea Resin Glue both of which appear to be good substitutes for the stuff I use. I did try the Unibond 800 when I was living in the States a few years back (for a conventional caul-veneered repair) and was well pleased with the results.
Scrit
Unibond 800 or DAP plastic resin glue both work well for veneering applicatons and are urea formaldehyde glues. Unibond 800 is avilable from Highland Hardware and DAP plastic resin glue is available at McMaster Carr. Those are the sources convenient to me. I'm sure there are plenty of others.Tom
Douglasville, GA
There is a company in Santa Ana, Calif or is it Costa Mesa, anyway they are called National Casein. They are very good to work with and they do have tech people on staff. Unfortunitly, their phone number is still packed away in moving boxes (somewhere)
You are right about contact cement not doing what you need for this type of application. Stay away from that acetone too ... it leaves a film on the wood ... also there is no way that it will evaporate in ten minutes, just the visible surface part does. Instaed sand them to get a clean surface and I would try using titebond II for these. I would apply it by roller to both surfaces separately and then let them dry overnight or longer. I'd use a small flocked sponge roller to apply the glue. After both glue surfaces are dry then iron on the veneer with a small electric clothes iron. You will be in effect melting the two dried glue surfaces together. This has worked well for me on all sorts of small veneering. I have not had much luck with it on larger surfaces. It is an experiment in this application but I suspect that it will work well. It is helpful to have the veneer pieces slightly oversize and then trim them after ironing them down. This minimizes positioning problems.
Edited 10/29/2003 11:16:36 PM ET by Clay
Contact glue works by pressure. You need to apply hard pressure all over and in this case a vacum bag may be the only way to get it. Acetone is a solvent for most contact glues any residue will degrade the glue. Humidity and temperature also effect the process. A vacum bag will allow exploration of other gluing methods, might be worth the investment for multiples. You may be able to put several pieces in the same bag but most glues will require an overnight set up on your difficult pieces.
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