When veneering small items such as a jewelry box or Chippendale mirror, is it necessary to veneer both sides (using solid wood groundwork)? If not, at what size does it become necessary?
Is there a rule for when you should counter veneer under the face veneer and when its not needed?
Jeff
Replies
As a rule, both sides should be veneered. Having said that, I don’t always do it. I make a lot of federal card tables, and I never veneer the backside of the aprons. I would think, that you could skip the counter veneer on your box sides, since the corner joints will keep things stable. The top on the other hand, will almost certainly would warp if not veneered on both sides, no matter how small it is. I once made a small (6"x 8") door for a federal secretary, using quarter sawn mahogany as a base, which I veneered only the face side, thinking it would not warp, I was, oh so very wrong.
Thanks to both of you for your help.
Rob, I'm waiting for your next posting in the gallery.
Jeff
If by "counter veneer under the face veneer" you mean crossbanding (a layer of veneer laid cross-grain to the face veneer, between the core and the face), I don't think you need it. Crossbanding is most necessary over a rough core (like construction-grade plywood, maybe) or if you have face veneer with really wild grain, like burl.
There was an article in Wood Magazine #129 about John Russell's veneered boxes, with a sample project using 1/4in mahogany veneered only on the outside. But that used several different veneers with grain running in different directions. If you plan to cover whole faces with a straight length of veneer I'd follow Rob's advice and veneer both faces.
Graeme
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