I’m going to be building three end tables. I intend to make the tops veneered panels, maybe 17″ by 20″ or so, captured with splines in a mitered frame maybe 2″ wide. So with panels of that size, I figure that if I use MDF I’ll need to veneer both sides. How about 3/4″ baltic birch — would I need to balance the veneers with that?
I’m inclinded to err on the side of caution/best practice here, but it sure seems in my gut that the baltic birch would be fine without veneering the other side. But then maybe my gut isn’t all that reliable…
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John, the balancing of both sides absolutely needs venneering as well as sanding and finishing of equal amounts. A couple of seal coats an the bottom at least should do the job. The basic rule being "whatever you do to one side you do to the other" There are mitigating circumstances, of course, but there is also no going back once a problem develops. aloha, mike
I have found that if hot hide glue is used instead of contact cement, veneering the opposite side isn't neccessary. I have not veneered large pieces though. I have made game boards , mdf for substrate, hot hide glue applied and later ironed on the veneer.Some of the boards are 6 years old with no problems so far.
mike
I have found that if hot hide glue is used instead of contact cement, veneering the opposite side isn't neccessary.MIKEK, I have no doubt that gameboards are doable in that manner. Furniture pieces, cabinet doors, etc need stabilisation and contact cement, in my opinion, is never an option. I use yellow glue, plastic resin, pva, or 2 part epoxy depending on the type of wood and the finished look. Solvent based finishes will react to contact cement and heat will bubble it. Game boards have seamed parts and possibly less pull across the surface of a panel. I have used hide glue but it is the messiest and therefore less attractive for most things I do. It isnt that there is only one way-its more than that are better ways for certain functions and we progressively gravitate to them as we go through this craft
It doesn't matter what you use as a substrate. Always counter veneer the back side, preferably with the same species, and in the same pattern.
Many years ago I made a large diameter round table with a radial "sunburst" veneer pattern. I counter veneered the back side with veneer running in one direction. This was laid on 1-1/4" MDF about 48" in diameter, and the MDF crowned in the center almost an eighth of an inch. This mistake taught me as much as anything the power of veneer to warp a panel if not balanced.
[URL=http://www.jameseddywoodworks.com]James Eddy Woodworks[/URL]
John,
Definitely, veneer the underside. But you can get away with the cheapest species you find. It's not that critical a glue-up.
DR
John,
I've built many veneered table tops, etc. In most cases, I carefully seal the underside with finish material; i.e., polyurethane, lacquer, etc. I haven't had any issue with using this method.
For a couple of years, I worked in commercial shops. For productivity reasons, none of the veneered panels, be it cabinet tops, wall panels or whatever received veneer on the 'backside'. In these cases, they received a sealer for stabilization.
Regards,
Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
Mensa Member
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I've built many veneered table tops, etc. In most cases, I carefully seal the underside with finish material; i.e., polyurethane, lacquer, etc. I haven't had any issue with using this method...I do not use veneer that often but have made several large projects with veneer on just one side.. MDF and glued up sticks...With a quality seal on the back I have never had a problem..Maybe I was just lucky though..
My experience is more on the finishing end of the equation, although I've done some veneering too.
Based on my experience the problem area is whether the backside is sealed against moisture or not, as moisture gain/loss is ultimately the culprit when warpage is a problem. Using a cheap (or even expensive) veneer to equalize the backside works. But, what it's doing is sealing it off when you glue it on. So that the glue is what's doing the trick rather than the veneer.
I could certainly see a thick veneer causing some warping on it's own. But, it'd need to be pretty thick. And even then I would first suspect that the backside hadn't been properly sealed.
My $.05...
Preemptive Karma
"Rather fail with honor than succeed by fraud" - Sophocles.
Hey John,
The baltic birch is fine, but what ever you do on one side do on the other. This is advise I got from Paul Schurch of CA. On the back side you wouldn't have to use the figured stuff you used on the front but you need to need to veneer both front and back. Paul does have a web site. It is Schurchwoodwork.com. You may be able to get info. on his site to call him and ask him directly. He is a very smart man when it comes to veneer. He also has a small book that he has written and some videos for sale that are well worth the money.
Good luck,
Morris
"The baltic birch is fine, ..."
Baltic birch may be fine, but it's expensive overkill. MDF is a very stable substrate, as is apple ply, and both are much cheaper than Baltic.
Regards,
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