I would like to cut my own veneer at say 1/8th inch and glue it to MDF to make table tops inlays. Do I need to worry about expansion and contraction??
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
That's a little thicker than generally recommended. 1/16" to 3/32" is more the accepted norm. Conventional wisdom says, at that thickness, it will, act more like solid wood (i.e., expand and contract). That said, you might get away with it depending on species, application, etc., but, if possible, a little thinner is safer.
Thanks...that was the answer I ex
No you don’t, I often use 1/8 to 1/4 veneer on plywood to make panels but they are well attached to a frame so the panel does not cup. I would use poplar or multi-ply plywood instead of mdf, hate that material.
Thanks for resp
The issue becomes how the veneer will expand or contract relative to a substrate that doesn't. I used 1/16" sapele for a bathroom cabinet and that environment ultimately caused the finish to craze. Not knowing what you are making and what the room conditions will be, I agree that I would likely go to a final thickness of around 1/16.
My boat floor veneer are over 1/16’’ thick, 44 years old. Modern floors have 1/100 ‘’ thick veneer, now that’s a problem. Many plywood cores have 1/8 layers crossing at 90 degrees. Veneering over mdf is likely more of a problem than using thick veneer, mdf is not stable under varying humidity I would rather use a plywood core.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled