Replies

1. 
   rslatm | Feb 05, 2004 09:58pm | #1

   Why not hang around the http://www.vacupress.com  veneer forum or search google. It's my experience there are more new people asking old questions that have been asked before.
2. 
   migraine | Feb 05, 2004 10:51pm | #2

   I have used both paperback and laminate back. There are 2 things to keep in mind.  One is what ever you do to the face, you should do to the back with same type of product(paper back or laminate back).  The other is to try to avoid using plywood for the substraight because most plywood doesn't have a solid, inconsistant core and all irregularities will telegraph through.  I prefer industrial particle board or MDF.  Curved doors, I used a good quality 1/8" bending poplar and hand sand the curved surface true before laminatingthe veneer products on the front and back(do both sides at the same time).  

   I have had some problem with the surface checking on the face of the laminate product, but this was mainly due to the fact that the finisher bleached the veneer/laminate product.  

   The last job I did with laminte backed B.E.maple was about 10 sheets.  The one before was about 70 sheets.  The backer sheets were either plain sliced white maple($40.00 per sheet) or white phenolic backer($8.00-$10.00 sheet).

   Becareful with the product you buy.  Some of the products out there are micro thin veneers and even a careful sand will cause burn through. One brand is distributed through Jacaranda Group in Florida.  I can't remember the products' name though.  Absolutly beautiful B.E.maple but too thin to work with.

   Best advise is to vacuum press.  Don't use contact cement.  A poorly applied contact cement will telegraph through or the solvent in the finish coat will/could cause bubbling or delamination.

   If you invest in a vacuum system, buy a 7" rubber roller applicator with hopper on top.  One fill of the hopper will be enough to coat a whole 4'X8' sheet.  It makes paint rollers obsolete.

1. 
   Norse | Feb 05, 2004 11:26pm | #3

   Thanks to both of you for the information, I've been reading the vacupress.com forum: I love the internet!

   Migraine,

   you warned against using plywood. My project has frameless cabinets (black melamine) with lacewood veneered doors. What would you use for the substrate for the doors? The Jacaranda product is called SanPly 3 or 4. I also have a 12" r. round drum to veneer so I think I'll use the SanPly3.

   Thanks again!

   Norse

1. 
   migraine | Feb 07, 2004 10:19pm | #4

   I once laid up some rift cut ash veneer on some particle board that was white melamine on one side and birch on the other for a friend.  This was done after I warned him about plastic on one side and veneer on the other would cause warping because both sides of the panel were not balanced.  They sure did warp.   If you can get black phenolic backer or verticle grade lamintae, then use the plastic backed veneer.  If not, I recommend that you have the front and back in paper back and then spray the back of the door black with a similar finish as the front (lacquer?).  Plus there is now good way to repair scratches in black melamine.

   If you are in SoCal, I would recommend you try California Panel and Veneer (Cerritos/Artesia?)for plastic products and Anderson Trading(Anaheim) for Veneers and curved products.

   There is nothing wrong with using a good quality particle board/MDF.  Just made sure you are careful with how you store the sheetgoods(same as plywood).  Allow equal air movement/temperature around the parts/panels.  I would use this over plywood anyday.  My personal preference is Industrial particle board over MDF