Verdict on Porter Cable 6″ Saw Boss?
I have a right blade very nice Makita 7 1/4″ Saw that I use for my general Circ saw needs, but I’m interested in a left blade saw to use as well and this one has caught my attention.
Please send feedback
Thanks,
Mike
Replies
Mike,
By all means run to the store and get a pc sawboss. 9 amps of power, vacume attachment, weighs about nine pounds.
I have a 5.5 inch skill, I have a 7.25 inch pc also. I reach for the saw boss about 98% of the time unless I am doing some really demanding and rough work. The sawboss has been one of the best tools I have ever owned. I am a righty and I really like not having to lean over the blade to see my cut line. I use it allot with a straight edge to rip down plywood panels. I also ordered the fine tooth carbide blade and dust hose with mine.
Heres a tip, ignore it if you have experience already with this.
Clamp down a striaght edge and proceed to make a cut. Stop about halfway through the cut. Put down the saw. Without moving the straightedge square a line out perpendicular from the straight edge to the near edge of the cut line. Now measure along this line from the straight edge to the edge of the cut and record the distance. You now have a really accurate measurement of the distance from the saw blade to the straight edge. now you will know how far to set a layout line away from the line you want to cut on. With this method you are clamping the straightedge to the material you want, so the waste and kerf will be to the right.
Give the sawboss a try, i didn't regret it.
Chris
Webby pretty much covered it. I'm on my 2nd sawboss after 12 years of service from the 1st one. It's a great little saw. Compact, lightweight, yet plenty of power, even when cutting 2x. One thing I'd recommend: If you'll be using it for finish work, invest 20 or 30 bucks & buy a good blade for it, like an amana or freud. The p.c. blades haven't performed well for us, other than for framing.
Mike,
Our business owns a couple saw boss saws. They work great and are just right in size for more versatility, but we have had one problem with them. The front pivot point where the stampted shoe attaches to the plastic body wears over time. The wear allows wobble between the shoe and upper during a cut and leads to falty cuts and possible kickback if the blade binds. I have not had any serious problems with binding, but the wobble has ruined some cheek cuts for large tenons, causing them to be out of square. The saw works perfectly when new, but if used regularly for a couple years, the wobble becomes very concerning. Just thought you'd like to know this.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled