Replies

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Apr 09, 2003 04:19am | #1

   Jamie

      Gosh!! I almost didn't notice as the title threw me off a little. No wonder it took so long to get the pics posted. I didn't realize you wre building a web-site. ha..ha..

      Holding out, huh... The table is great. You did a nice job of cleaning it up and a great idea with your current limited space for the fold down. The web site is great also. I was able to get all the way through without having to ask which button to push. ha..ha..

   Job well done on both table and site...

   sarge..jt

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 09, 2003 04:28am | #2

   Hi Sarge, thanks!  Maybe we should call it a mini-site or a site-ette, LOL.   I got things going this afternoon with some practice making some moulding.  Am already wanting to stick the Freud in there so I have tons of power!  Silly...

   I can't wait 'til this summer when I can put it outside to work.  Also, when I've thinned out a couple of low-priority cabinets from the shop and make some more room, it should be possible to put a full-sized router stand (w/ drawers and such) without running out of foot-path room.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   TomFerreira | Apr 09, 2003 04:33am | #3

   FG,

   Great job! I really like the way the table folds down without having to disturb the fence. It must have been tricky to get the table flush with the saw. I know when I was doing my outfeed table I had a bear of a time. The fact that it is steel is great with respect to the magnetic holddown.

   Good luck with it and happy routing. Nothing like a new machine!

   TDF

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 09, 2003 05:06am | #4

   Hi Tom, thanks!  I had to ponder awhile to figure out the leveling procedure.  Fortunately, the bolt holes in the wing are oblong, so there's room to adjust.  I put two roller stands underneath the router table frame, as close to level as I could sight, then got my straight-edge out.  I tightened the bolts through the wing enough to hold well, but still able to move a tad in response to a mallet rap.  Got the saw-side edge level with the wing and then adjusted the stands so everything was just right, tightened it all up and measured for the legs (they were too long from their previous duty).

   The "real" legs to come will have to have a way of being leveled for the rough floor, and designed so those mini-Besseys aren't needed.  For the prop, Veritas uses a small board on each side, connected with a dowel.

   Setting up those pages inspired me, and immediately afterwards, I was able to solve a long-standing logo problem for the real business site.  Will take inspiration any way it comes!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Apr 09, 2003 05:39am | #5

   Jamie

      If the legs will be wooden, cut them a little short and drill a pilot hole on the bottom that touches floor. Add a 5/16" lag bolt and you have your "po-boy" adjuster. A wrench turn to right shortens the lag and left turn lengthens. A piece of rubber glued to the head of the lag or felt with an adhesive side applied will keep from scratching the floor.

   Mr. Field Expediency... ha..ha..

   sarge..jt

1. 
   jackiechan | Apr 09, 2003 07:09am | #7

   Sarge (& Forest Girl),

   If you throw a threaded steel insert (brass is to soft) into the end of the wooden leg, you can thread a nice stout nut onto the lag screw before it goes into the leg.  Once the bolt has adjusted the leg to the correct height, run the nut right up against the threaded insert, and use a wrench to tighten it up.  This will help to keep the lag/leveler from vibrating loose and into a different height.  (It helps to add a little more strength to the bolt as well.)

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

3. 
   pauld | Apr 09, 2003 06:52am | #6

   Nice web-site and router table setup, FG!

   You're right about the dangers of a router slipping out of its restraints while the motor is running. Very darned scary! Had it happen with a 3-1/2 HP Porter Cable, and have since rigged a safety device, situated immediately beneath the motor, that is ALWAYS put in place before the motor is switched on.

   Happy routing,

   Paul

4. 
   BrianMcG | Apr 09, 2003 09:09am | #8

   Hi Jamie, Sweeeeet! It's got me thinking and have ordered the video.

   P.S. will get back to you with the TS/motor info.

   P.S.S. Nice job on the site. I have a million questions! Just kidding..I won't bother you on that subject too..... :)

   Brian

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 09, 2003 09:55am | #9

   Thanks Brian.  I'm having fun with the set-up.  It's so nice to have a solid table!  Stock slides along real nice and real flat.  I was widening the bit opening in the main fence tonight, using a large chamfer bit.  The Grip-Tite came in handy as a stop to fend off any radical moves on the part of the fence as I was pivoting it into the bit.

   One of the things that usually comes up with regard to the Veritas is "There's no miter track!"  Funny thing, I don't think that'll be a problem.  One of the Bench-Dog guys told me a couple years ago he thought they were just dust traps anyway, LOL.  Home-made featherboards can be clamped to the table, a right-angle sled (commercial or home-made) works for end-routing.  forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Apr 09, 2003 07:40pm | #10

   Jamie

      I installed a mitre track strickly for a sliding track that fits into it to have a movable place to attach feathers and jigs. It's strickly a time saver. As you stated, the same thing can be done by just clamping.

     Other than that, I don't see the necessity of a mitre on either the router or bandsaw. IMO..

   sarge..jt

1. 
   mstens | Apr 09, 2003 07:47pm | #11

   I actually use my miter track on my router table.  For end cuts on narrow stock :)  where is my head sheesh.   I like the extension table, looks very useful :)  esp with the grip-tite.  I really like mine on the tablesaw, jointer, etc ;)

   Edited 4/9/2003 12:55:56 PM ET by mstens

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 09, 2003 07:59pm | #13

   Oh, I'd bet most people who have the miter track do use them, for the purpose you cite and for featherboards.  The earlier debate (last year sometime) was whether there were other ways to accomplish the same thing. 

   End-routing is something I've not been able to do until now, because that little B&D table dropped off from "flat" on the front side -- it was flat up to the miter slot (such as it was), and then dropped about 1/4".  A dedicated edge routing table!!

   Before someone jumps in to say "Why didn't you just build one" I'll answer in advance:  Didn't feel like it, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   forestgirl | Apr 09, 2003 08:04pm | #14

   You were editing simultaneously with my post :-)  Ahhhhhh, another Grip-Tite fan!  I love the simplicity and effectiveness of the Grip-Tite.  That may be my next WWing web page.  There are just so many things it can be used for on different machines.  Have you ever used it on your bandsaw or drill press??

   When I ordered the replacement inserts and stuff for the router table, I got some rare earth magnets to make a holder for installing jointer knives.  Many extras for other to-be-imagined uses.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   mstens | Apr 09, 2003 08:13pm | #15

   It's one of those things, if somethings simple and easy to use you'll use it.  Which is pretty much exactly what I like about the grip-tite.  You just set it where you want and go.  Whole lot easier than clamping featherboards down.   I have a shop made table on my drill press so I don't use it there, but that's got hold downs and stop blocks anyway.  And as of yet I haven't made the bandsaw plunge, although that's next on the list.

2. 
   forestgirl | Apr 09, 2003 07:54pm | #12

   Have you looked at the hold-down they make for the Veritas fence?  They don't have a good picture of it on their web-site, but it's like the hold-downs that are on shapers, except the whole thing fastens to the fence.  They say it will work with stock from 1/8" square to 2x4".  Holds the work both down and against the fence, and is easy to adjust. 

   Finding that final accessory helped sell me on the system.  Wanted the hold-down and -in to be easy to use, as is your miter-slot-based system.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Apr 09, 2003 10:24pm | #18

   Jamie

      Yes, I have seen the hold down. I use feathers on my fence also. I use the mitre slot and moving slide for a homemade "springboard". The springboard keeps pressure to the fence.

      When I'm not using it for routing I can practice with it. Every four years I try to make the U.S. Olympic Diving Team.  So far, those young "whipper-snappers" have beat me out. But, I don't give up easy. ha..ha..

   sarge..jt

5. 
   Len | Apr 09, 2003 09:11pm | #16

   Forestgirl,

   Very nice router table. The fold down feature is great. I know what it's like to have limited space.

   Just sold my Ryobi BT3000 tablesaw and bought a Grizzly 1023S. I forgot my router table went with my old tablesaw. Now, I need to build one too.

   Thanks for the inspiration.

   Len

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 09, 2003 09:25pm | #17

   "I forgot my router table went with my old tablesaw."  Hope you pulled your router out!!!  Let us know what you end up building, zokay?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)