Replies

1. 
   derekcohen | Oct 30, 2007 05:06pm | #1

   I am in the process of trying out the new Veritas Small Plow Plane (assessment and then review), using my #043 and #044 for comparison.

   So I clean up the planes for a photo shoot, and I give the Veritas a wooden slide for the fence - as I have done with the other two. I decide to have a bit of fun - why should the slide just be a rectangle of hard wood? Minor shaping follows. I think that the result with the Veritas is terrific!

   Quite racy, dontchathink?

   The Veritas Small Plow Plane ...

   View Image

   ... and the three planes together ...

   View Image

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   Wingdoctor | Oct 30, 2007 11:09pm | #3

   Very nice Derek! I have a nice piece of figured bubinga that I am going to rip and shape for a fence for mine.

   I just got home from work, oops.... my Mother told me to avoid those 4 letter words!!

   It's time to go to the shop and play with my new plane now.

2. 
   mathewson | Apr 13, 2008 10:07pm | #4

   What is the little plow plane which looks like a stanley 95?

1. 
   derekcohen | Apr 14, 2008 03:09am | #6

   Record #043

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   mathewson | Apr 15, 2008 05:36am | #15

   Thanks,I'd never heard of that one before.Keith

2. 
   EdHarrison | Oct 30, 2007 06:51pm | #2

   Enjoy. Plow planes tend to do a lot of work without a great deal of fuss. Make some raised panels by hand, including the rails and stiles, with the plow plane, rabbet plane and coping gouge - that was a woodworking breakthrough for me. One of those moments where I said, "Now why the heck did I ever build that router table?"

   I have 2 Record 043s, 1 Record 044, 3 Stanley 50s (enough parts for a fourth, probably), and 2 wooden screw-arm plow planes. I guess I got a plow plane problem and don't need the Veritas version - it looks well-made, though.

   I think L-N should make a copy of the Stanley 46 and Stanley 50 out of the bronze alloy that they use.

   Take care, Ed

1. 
   prbayliss | Apr 14, 2008 02:10am | #5

   Hi Ed,What's a coping gouge? Searched on the internet, but couldn't find any info.Best regards,
   Paul

1. 
   EdHarrison | Apr 14, 2008 05:36am | #7

   Incannel Cabinetmaker's Gouge when used for coping.The bottom of the two chisels on this page:http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=EE-SG500.XX&Category_Code=TBMSI have seen old ones described specifically as "coping gouges" when sold by:http://www.thebestthings.comGood luck.

1. 
   prbayliss | Apr 14, 2008 05:48am | #9

   Hi Ed,I understand now. Also, you cite the two sites that I purchase most of my supplies from. See my next post and all will become clear.Many thanks!
   Paul

2. 
   Napie | Apr 14, 2008 05:37am | #8

   Also known as an “in-cannel” gouge.  The bevel is in the inside allowing a coping cut around the bead struck on the edge of a sash.  

1. 
   prbayliss | Apr 14, 2008 05:56am | #10

   Hi Napie,I have a window that needs to be replaced (1876 Brownstone Apartment). It's in my kitchen and it's a sash window that's really warped badly over the years. The warp lets the wind through as gale force. It was like it when I moved in.I have a matched pair of wooden molding planes that match the profile exactly, the bit that I was missing was a reliable way of coping the rails to the stiles.My planes are marked 1 & 2 (Rough and Finish) and 5. Do you think that 5 refers to the London Pattern sweep? Incidentally the planes are approx. 5/8, so it could be that. Do you know if there's anyone out there that manufactures #5 1/2" in-cannel gouges if this is indeed the case?Many thanks for your answers so far!
   Paul

1. 
   Napie | Apr 15, 2008 01:35am | #13

   I bought the four I have at flea markets, just like all my chisels.  I’d try that and just look for one that matched the profile you have or is at least close.  I don’t believe there was much in the way of standards for these tools.  Some manufacturers even had great variation in their own tool lines.  There is more than one way to skin the cat, just use a coping saw and a sharp knife.

2. 
   prbayliss | Apr 15, 2008 05:59am | #17

   Thanks! I will keep my eyes peeled for an in-cannel 1/2 in gouge. I agree, it would also be possible to use the coping saw and the profile would be small enough that I might just get it fairly accurate. I do like the idea of getting a very clean cut with a sharp gouge though.Best regards and thanks again,
   Paul

2. 
   prbayliss | Apr 14, 2008 06:12am | #11

   Hi Ed,I'm curious how you use your coping gouge in raised panel work.Best regards,
   Paul

1. 
   EdHarrison | Apr 14, 2008 07:30am | #12

   Just like Mike Dunbar teaches in this article:http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignPDF.aspx?id=2739It's from FWW 151, if you have access to back issues.I apologize that it's one of those things that's easier for me to just do than to explain, but basically, the Reader's Digest version is that you make the mortise and tenon joints for the rails and stiles first, then you use the rounded profile of one rail or stile to pencil mark the profile on the piece that it joins to and then just cope the waste part away.Maybe someone else can explain the technique better - I'm not good at explaining it. I have evolved (or devolved) to the point where I like my woodworking mute, silent, internalized, and beyond the mere artifice of words, which is why I don't take much of an interest in "knots" any more. Or maybe I just read one too many Lataxe post. <G> Anyway, best of luck and hope you work it all out.

1. 
   prbayliss | Apr 15, 2008 05:54am | #16

   Hi Ed,Thanks for the link to the article. I now see how this will work. The front face of the mortise is cut away square and the cope on the rail only goes down as far as the tenon to accommodate the ovolo on the stile. From looking at my old windows it appears on the surface that the coping goes all the way through, but maybe it only goes as far as the tenon from both edges. This is probably confusing to read, because It's hard explain without a picture.Anyway, I think that I now have much more of an idea.Many thanks,
   Paul

3. 
   Napie | Apr 15, 2008 01:37am | #14

   I’d buy one of those.  One would think L-N could do quite well on the “joinery” type planes.

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