Anyone have experience with this vise? Is it really non-racking? Is it worth the $179 bucks?
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=45114&cat=1,41637
Anyone have experience with this vise? Is it really non-racking? Is it worth the $179 bucks?
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=45114&cat=1,41637
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Replies
I haven't used it much yet, but yes it is non-racking in the horizontal plane. If you have your workpiece very far above the screws and have the screws extended extensively and crank down hard, I think it will rack vertically somewhat. Price? Well that just depends on how much you would use it and how much you value it's idiosyncrasies. In general, a vice can be almost priceless.
Houston, we have a problem....
(LOL) I've always wanted to say that...sorry...
I got one of my Veritas vises several years ago before the dollar's exchange rate became an issue... Woodcraft ran a sale and it was around a $120.
From a recycled laminated 2'X4' by 2-1/2" thick, unused foundry pattern, I made the jaws mostly from Hard Rock Maple. I also glued a piece of Walnut as a trim line to match the benchtop's apron. Then, on the top edges of both wooden jaws, I inlayed tough endgrain taken from the cross section of the workbench top to match its pattern.
The jaws are a finished thickness of 2-1/4". The widths are 8" and length across the end of the workbench is about 40". So, to the cost of the vise kit, you can add at least $60 for your jaws.
With the moving brass pin on one of the leadscrew assemblies, you can disengage the chain drive and rack the outer jaw for tapered stock, but no more than one turn of one of the leadscrews which equals about a 1/4". That same brass pin is also the company's design as a "shear pin"....to prevent stripping the sprockets or breaking the drive chain... The company includes a second one, but of all the strong points of this design, the only problem you might have is from breaking those brass pins by overtightening the jaws by using only one of the wooden handles instead of both...
If you get the Vertias kit, FOLLOW THEIR DIRECTIONS, and TAKE TIME TO MAKE the little jig used to lineup the bolt holes you drill into your workbench.
I liked mine so much, I bought another.
Bill
Edited 2/25/2006 4:01 pm ET by BilljustBill
Edited 2/27/2006 12:06 am ET by BilljustBill
Delighted to hear good vibes on the Lv twin. My plan for my retirement shop is to move the two old garage shop 2x6-2x4 decked A- frame benches to be the mechanical (auto repair) area. Two recent light small hard wood benches, one with a wilton 4x7 vise, as well as a new top bought at a WW show in Dec.(29x60x2 1/2) that gets a Record 53 and a 24" twin. I will bang out a pair of sled bases with 2x6 stringers using Lv barrel bolts. These will keep me till I can build MY bench in 24+ months when the two hickory trees that we are dropping late march are dry and happy boards living in the loft of my 12x24 garden shed. That bench will be be 36x92x3 with my Emmert clone and another Lv 24" twin. It's taking a bag full of will power not to put the Emmert on the 2 1/2 top now. Thanks, another little decision made, hundreds to go. Pat
I'm building a bench right now with the Emmert clone and the LV twin. After lots of research, I think those vises provide the most versatility. I'll let you know how it turns out.
I will appreciate any info. I expect to mount the record 53 and the twin on the factory 20x60 late this month in a trip to the new house. I a trying to scope out an optimum pattern for the 3/4" round dogs. thanks, Pat
it's non-racking, and until someone comes along with something better I'd say this will be standard issue on any new bench I build. Given the length of the face it sometimes gets a littel out of alignment but it's easy to adjust off one screw, while the other has a brass pin that you can pull to deliberately skew the face.
I have had one installed for about 6 months. No problems, but I wish it had a quick adjustment like a side vise.
Read the instructions and follow them. I added bench pup holes on the top and side and find that I use that feature more than clamping in the jaws.
I designed my bench around the dimension requirements of the vise.
I highly recommend it.
Bob
Great post!
I will be starting on my bench soon, and have decided on the veritas vise also.
Do you find that the vise holds well and is pretty stiff when holding a board against the face of your bench and the dog hole on the side of your veritas vise? Say if you wanted to plane the edge of a board?
Thats exactly how I was planning on setting up my dog holes.
Very nice bench also, looks very heavy, the legs give me that impression.
Joe
Bob,
Nice job in your workbench! Your idea of having a metal vise mounted to a clamping board to your woodworking vise is something I like. I, too, use theVeritas' bench dogs(pups) and enjoy them...but it's the cost of those puppies, WHEW!!!!... And I bought mine on sale plus with the added "Birthday Discount Card" of 10% more off that Woodcraft offers....
What I'm working on is making my own bench dogs. Veritas says that theirs work best because the brass is a few thousands undersize and slides in and out more easily. Plus, they've cut a positive 2*degree angle in the flat face of the bench dog, so the face on the dog slants toward the vise. That angle keeps the board pushed downward to the bench top as its tightened.
I've found both American and Taiwan brands of round 3/4" diameter Brass draft punches about 10" long at a local monthly flea market . With a simple hacksaw, I can make 4 more from one punch for less than $8. The hatch marks that add somewhat of a grip can be cut into the flat face of the bench dog with cutters and a Dremel tool.
Bill
Edited 3/3/2006 12:40 am ET by BilljustBill
I'm interested in the dog holes on the bench apron. Do they work well? Are they strong enough to hold a board for edge jointing?
To follow up on some of your questions:The side dog holes work very well and hold a board on edge very secure. The vise seems to be able to withstand the pressure with no problem. I would probably break the handle before anything else let go. The spacing on the dog holes is 5.25". They could be closer, but I wouldn't go any further apart. You have to consider the distance between the jaws when open and space your holes a lesser dimension. The idea on spacing is that this is the quickest adjustment to make in clamping; put the dog in the closest hole to capture the board and use the vise to adjust and clamp. If your holes are too far apart, you'll spend a lot of time cranking the vise. I used Lee Valley bench pups on the vise, sides and inline with the Record vise. I used Lee Valley bench dogs along the length of the top, which are in line with the pups on top of the vise jaw.I have seen dowel used for pups, and they wouldn't damage a blade, but I only need 4 pups and 2 dogs to give a wide range of clamping options, so I feel it is a worthwhile expense. Holes for the pups were drilled on a press with a Forstner bit, before all sections were glued up. The dog holes were dadoed on the table saw before glue up (I think they have a 2 degree tilt to them.)Before starting bench design, one should purchase the vises as they determine the optimum thickness of the top and location of the base.Yes, this is a heavy bench! All lumber used was reclaimed from our road building, cut at a local saw mill and then air dried.Bob
Just to echo what everyone else has said - the Twin-Screw vise is awesome. Clamping a long board along the front of the bench I can bow the board if I crank too hard - it sure isn't moving!
Contrary to the others I can't justify the cost of the (admittedly very pretty) Veritas dogs. Mine are a buck a pop and I've never had the slightest problem with them.
View Image
I do have a couple of the Wonder-Pups and they are invaluable for a number of odd clamping needs.
View Image
One note on the construction - since I have a drawer below the top I put a sliding shelf above the drawer (removable from the back side) to keep sawdust out of the drawer. FYI, the top is 3 layers 3/4" MDF with a 1/4" hardboard top. Stable, durable, solid, cheap.
Edited 3/5/2006 1:36 pm by wrudiger
Edited 3/5/2006 1:36 pm by wrudiger
I am loving your dog hole jig A LOT. Very nice.I have a zillion 3/4" holes to do in a few new benches. I hope that you consider theft of concept among wood workers, the highest form of praise. Thanks, Pat
Glad you liked the jig! The thing that keeps the the Forstner bit & drill square is from Rockler; the rest is from the scrap heap. I'm a big fan of jigs, and this one worked like a charm.
Been meaning to ask you - how in heck out of the whole country did you find Davey Crockett country to retire to? Beautiful country - had 60 acres on the other side of Clinch Mtn in the late 70's. I'm sure I wouldn't recognize the place any more.
It looks super. I have several hundred questions--help! I am doing the same type bench in the next 2 weeks in a visit to my retirement house, then back to sell the old house. This bench is to provide a platform to get things done pre-move in.
How much over hang to install the blue face vise? I will use a Record #53.
The twin jaws look to be 1 1/2"? Is the inside jaw lagged into the end of the bench or the blocking under the top?
My Starret tooling vice will be set up as yours on a clamped platform--very smart.
2x6 stringers-6x6 legs-2x8 base? Very solid. Thanks, Pat
Pat,I'll check the dimensions tomorrow.I would buy all hardware (vises, dogs, etc) before beginning construction. I built the top first. With the top upside down, I positioned the vises as I thought best, traced around mounting base and screws (jaws fully closed), then built the base to allow clearance of the vises and dog holes.Bob
Built one into a bench I built for my furniture shop about 7 years ago and must say have had no trouble with it. You could make a few minor improvements, such as the end caps on handles. Have to say it was worth the money. Use it often.
I've become a pretty big user and fan of Lee Valley products.
Bill
I installed the vice on a bench several years ago...works fine, no racking.
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