Replies

1. 
   Segil | Nov 17, 2005 01:07am | #1

   MrSQL,

         You must provide more information in order for us, the collective knotheads, to give you any meaningful advice.  How many glue-ups is a lot?  What are you gluing up, and what sizes will these assemblies be?  How fast do they need to dry, and to what degree are you machining them after they leave the clamps?  And finally, what are they to be used for in their final form?

2. 
   hammer1 | Nov 17, 2005 05:12pm | #2

   How big is your operation? Pneumatic tables with RF (radio frequency) glue setting are one of the most efficient and quickest ways to glue up panels. Clamp wheels are another choice for normal glue ups. They hold a lot of panels in a small space. I no longer have a gang rip saw, flattening machine and widebelt sander at my disposal. I surface my panel pieces before glue up, use cauls to hold them flat and in alignment and clamp with a couple of pipe clamps. 50 panels on a job are about the upper end for me. Love the versatility and economy of pipes, I needed 8' clamps yesterday, no problem.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   MrSQL | Nov 17, 2005 05:59pm | #3

   This is a home woodworking shop.  I'll be making kitchen and bathroom cabnets with solid wood sides as well as table tops and solid wood raised panel doors; also raised panel wainscoating.  Panels will generally be 24" or less wide and 36"-100" long.

   In the past I've used regular pipe clamps: alternating clamps and using cauls or other clamps to help with allignment.  However, I found this to be too slow and I also want to train my sons (ages 11, 13, 16) to help with the glue-ups.

     

1. 
   stevo1952 | Nov 17, 2005 06:21pm | #4

   Roger,
   One cheap thing that really helps me is I attached 6 3/4 pipe flanges to the joists in my shop in a straight line. I then screw in the end of a pipe clamp with the cranks down. This helps hold the panels and you could even slant the bottom out to hold better. You still might have to use cauls and alternate, but the wrestling is over with the clamps, and they can be unscrewed when not needed. For a total of about 6 bucks, its almost a clamping system.Stevo

1. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 18, 2005 10:56am | #7

   Don't pass this post up.. I do that (However, I bolted some 2X8's to the existing joists because they flexed a bit or large items and then a sheet of 3/4 ply across the spans)Not sure about that $6 though.. Ya ever price 3/4 inch pipe and flanges lately?

1. 
   stevo1952 | Nov 21, 2005 10:55pm | #8

   Will,
   I just meant $6 for the flanges as I already have the clamps. Still works great in any case.
   thanks,Stevo

2. 
   Segil | Nov 18, 2005 01:05am | #5

   Have you checked out JLT Clamp Co.?  They specialize in clamping set-ups just like you are describing, and they offer a wide range of sizes and prices.  After you've used their clamps, the ones most of us use seem like toys.  I seem to recall an entry level kit that had a rack and 8 bar clamps for something like $2000.  I think this will suit your needs very nicely, and is easily expandible.

3. 
   Scrit | Nov 18, 2005 01:24am | #6

   For smaller glue ups have you considered Plano clamps? I've used a set for a few years now in a small trade shop and they do the business#

   Scrit

4. 
   RickL | Nov 22, 2005 05:42pm | #9

   http://www.taunton.com/FWN/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=2350

   See above link to a poor mans Plano clamp jig. Been using something similar for 30 years in my homeshop, fast and efficient. In the factories we used huge rotating clamp carriers.

5. 
   mike4244 | Nov 22, 2005 08:23pm | #10

   I made vertical glue press years ago that works very well. I used 2x3's jointed straight with 7/16" holes on 3" centers.The back piece has 3/8" tee nuts to recieve either 7" or 10" x 3/8" hex head bolts. The longer bolts for thicker glueups. The press has hanging strips on the back (french cleats ).When in use they hang off a lumber rack,otherwise they are stacked out of the way. Put a finish on,shellac,varnish etc then wax. The wax will keep the glue from sticking,rewax each year.I am attempting to post some pictures,first try didn't work.

   mike

   
1. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 23, 2005 03:14am | #11

   Great idea.. My 3 cents...I have a good friend that has something like yours but I think it is a 'U' channel used for hanging electrical conduit.. I think I saw some at the local BIG BOX for about 15.00 for 10 foot? Sure beats drilling all those holes! Sort of like the shelf brackets behind your clamp but a 'U'...

1. 
   mike4244 | Nov 23, 2005 09:26pm | #12

   I imagine you are referring to unistrut. I used 2x3's fpr two reasons. Had them already, and the tee nuts are more convenient than using nuts and washers. Unistrut would work fine, you would have to use nuts and washers on each bolt. I used to use nuts when I first made the panel jig. Then decided tee nuts were the most efficient way to go.

   mike

1. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 25, 2005 07:27pm | #13

   I'm cheap so lock washer 'work' for me... LOL..EDIT:: I was NOT knockin' what ya have! Really!

   Edited 11/25/2005 11:28 am by WillGeorge

6. 
   MrSQL | Dec 15, 2005 02:03am | #14

   Hello,

   I wound up going with the 4-way equi pressure clamps from Woodworkers Supply.

   I set them up in a vertical glue press arrangement.  6 of them cost me $120 versus several hundred dollars for the other off-the-shelf vertical glue press clamps.  So far it's working great.

    

   Roger <><