I just heard about making ebony stain by soaking steel wool in white vinegar to make a solution to stain wood black. I have done so and it works but what is it?? I haven’t been able to find out what the solution is. Is it toxic, will it last in a storage jar, is the gas that is released to be concerned about?
I packed about half of a jar with steel wool and filled it with white vinegar and let soak for three days with the lid on loosely to let the gas escape. I strained it and painted it on the wood (walnut) and let it dry on the wood. It started to turn black very soon after painting on the wood.
I have searched the internet but have been unable to find anything to indicate what is the solution.
Replies
Vinegar is just a weak solution of acetic acid, 5% solution I believe. When you put the steel wool in the acid, you are oxidizing (rusting)it. What you are putting on the wood is essentially rust. I think the outgassing is hydrogen. Let the gas build up and slide a straw under the lid, then hold a lighter to it and see if it lights up. Remember to keep the lid on loose.
How does it look on your project?
Daggs,
While reading this I had a vision of Bart Simpsom igniting methane 'flash' before my eyes. An equally innocent sounding, but none-the-less bad idea. Although..........<!----><!----><!---->Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
The reaction product of the iron and acetic acid, is not rust, iron oxide, it is iron acetate. The iron acetate then reacts with tannic acid in wood to create the ebonizing changes.
I also made some tannin by boiling several tea bags to make a strong solution and applied it to maple and it also turned nice shade of black.
Thanks for the info.
You can also find powdered tannin at your local winemaking supply store! Mix with hot water and apply to your wood. Let dry then apply the vinegar/steel wool (iron acetate) solution. Experiment with several different species of wood, take note of your results and you'll gain more knowledge than you ever could from a finishing class.
tony b.
"Experiment with several different species of wood, take note of your results and you'll gain more knowledge than you ever could from a finishing class."
I agree that one can learn a great deal with the kind of experimentation you suggest.
I will add, however, that this method is exactly one of the things we teach in our finishing classes!
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
As Steve said, the mixture of iron oxide (rust) and acetic acid (vinegar) reacts with the tannic acid endemic to some wood species, resulting in darkening.
This kind of formulation is called a mordant. The effect can be relatively pronounced, as when applied to oak, or subtle, as when applied to maple.
The effect produced by this mordant is a cousin of the black stains that can be left by steel clamps during glue-ups.
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Edited 5/23/2006 10:11 am by jazzdogg
Try India Ink on some scrap and let it dry.. See if you like it..
"Some you can only teach/train, but there are others, whom you can also educate".
Amen, brother! They are the reason I chose this profession!
And then there are some who are suffering from such extreme cases of recto-cranial insertion that all we can do is eject them forcefully before they hurt themselves, their classmates, or the instructors!
Sawdust in your shoes,
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Edited 5/27/2006 8:25 pm by jazzdogg
...recto-cranial insertion...
I believe the scientific term is cranial rectosis. Heh.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
The end result of that is the syndrome called rectal myopeia, where your head is buried so far you can't see _____!
Edited 5/28/2006 9:54 pm ET by StuartE
I have found that you only need to put a small amount of steel wool, and it only has to soak a couple hours. The solution can appear clear and still be effective.
When I have let it sit a few days, it ends up going brown and rusty looking. Still works, though.
Ratios
I am about to begin a project and want to stain my oak boards Ebony. I have read a lot about home stains, but have found it difficult to find a ratio of steel:vinegar etc. Should I boil my concoction? Should it be strained, and if so how fine of a strainer should I use? a cheesecloth or something to just get the chunks out?
This is my first woodworking project and I am very excited! thanks for any help. Also, I have read about using Copperas to create a stain. My thoughts are to combine the two and try to get a VERY black stain that way.
I have used the vinegar steel wool stain and it works but it depends on the amount of tanin in the wood to determine how black the wood gets. The mix is simple, I stuffed a pad of pulled apart steel wool in a quart jar and filled it with vinegar. Wait about a week for most of the wool to desolve and strain it. It works but it does raise the wood grain because of the water.
However the December issue of Fine woodworking has a letter by Gerald Lauchle that recommends using "Fiebing's Professional Oil Dye" black. It does not raise the grain and is ready to use. I have not tried it but it sounds good.
Good luck.
Mike
Ebonizing
As Mike mentions, the steel wool and vinegar approach depends on a chemical reaction between the "stain" and the tannins in the stock. I'm not sure how subsequent conventional staining would affect that.
Another approach would be to use an aniline dye, either water-soluble or alcohol-soluble, where you can control both the mix and the number of applications to achieve the color you want. On small pieces, such as inlay stringing, I've even used India ink to achieve a dark black, ebony look. India Ink wouldn't be an economical solution for an entire piece, however.
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