Replies

1. 
   ysu65 | Feb 07, 2022 12:16pm | #1

   I use epoxy with graphite power, lock lube. for cherry cracks and checks. Cherry has black streaks normally so this should not be noticed.

2. 
   mrossk | Feb 07, 2022 12:22pm | #2

   +1 on using some black color (I use aniline dye powder)

3. 
   bilyo | Feb 07, 2022 03:12pm | #3

   I believe you are referring to pitch pockets which are fairly common in cherry. If you have some that are in and exposed surface where it would be visually objectionable, then yes, you can use epoxy. You might want to scrape out some of the soft material first and then mix a bit of sanding dust with the epoxy to match the rest of the surface as closely as possible. Otherwise, if the pockets will be hidden, you don't need to be concerned.

4. 
   DRBWWing | Feb 08, 2022 09:15am | #4

   Yes, pitch pockets, but they are not usually "voids". If there is a crack or gap that is either a split, or worse, a shake.

5. 
   gweb8877 | Feb 10, 2022 01:27pm | #5

   I built a desktop for my office built in here in FL with lumber I had brought with me from VT and had a similar issue. This wood had been band sawed from a tree harvested from my property and was air dried. It had plenty of defects, such as knots, worm holes, etc. I wanted to preserve the look, but had no experience with fillers. I experimented a bit and settled on clear epoxy and have never regretted it. The finished project looks awesome and has been stable for several years, so I am not concerned about longevity. The manufacturer warns about yellowing, but I have not had that happen. No area I filled was deeper than 1/2", so that may be a factor. I used a readily available product, JB Weld, from Lowe's.

   https://www.lowes.com/pd/JB-Weld-ClearWeld-Clear-Epoxy-Adhesive/1000820870

   I also tried the Gorilla glue clear epoxy and it worked quite well also, but is far more expensive.

   The pic is one of the deepest hole. This is at a joint between two of the boards. My only advice would be to assume you will need to fill more than once and avoid overlap onto the rest of the surface to the extent possible. It tends to stain and needs to be sanded out, but it is very superficial. The epoxy also sands easier than the surrounding surface, so machine or hand block sanding is best. It will look chalky after sanding, but once you apply finish, it will gain depth and clarity. I used Minwax Helmsman spar urethane on this project, 3 coats.

   I have an "after" pic if you'd like to see it, I just can't find my cable to download it from my camera just now.

   
6. 
   gweb8877 | Feb 10, 2022 01:38pm | #6

   I have used epoxy with excellent results. I would not recommend adding sawdust to it, as my experience is that it is nearly impossible to match and usually looks like a repair. A simple clear epoxy works amazingly well. It enhances the natural look. The color beneath the epoxy is exactly what you see. The pic is of the worst defect I had - it's a large cherry glue up for a desktop and this is at an edge joint (I used biscuits as well). It still looks amazing after 2 years, no yellowing. I can follow up with an "after" pic if you like, I just can't find the transfer cable for my camera right now. I also filled a number of cracks and flaws like what you mentioned, but after filling and finishing (satin poly), I can no longer find them. I would no recommend any other method and I've tried a lot of different things. I used JB Weld from Lowe's.

   https://www.lowes.com/pd/JB-Weld-ClearWeld-Clear-Epoxy-Adhesive/1000820870

   It's a reasonable cost product and works well. I also used gorilla glue with the same results (on the same project), but it's far more expensive.

   
7. 
   gweb8877 | Feb 10, 2022 01:39pm | #7

   Sorry about the double response. After posting, I went out and looked and it wasn't there. I must not have waited long enough.