I have a Rikon 6″ benchtop jointer and looking for to upgrade. Not sure if I should go with a floor-standing 6″ or a benchtop 8″. Don’t want to spend the $$$ for a floor standing 8″ at the moment. And I don’t want an old machine that requires lots of refurb.
So, 2 questions –
1) So – if I don’t want to spend $$$ for a floor standing 8″ – do I buy a floor standing 6″ or a benchtop 8″?
I don’t really use much gnarly wood – I am fortunate to live within driving distance of a huge indoor lumber supplier that stocks wood from all over the world. You just wander through the warehouse and pick out whatever you want, i.e. I usually come home with fairly square stock. And it often is in the 6-8″ width range so I have been frustrated by the 5.75″ max width on my 6″ jointer (and i rather not fuss with taking off the guard, …) And since I generally make small items – clocks, boxes, wall shelves, etc. the larger floor model with long tables, … really isn’t a big need as my working length stock is seldom > 24″.
2) Anyone familiar with the Wahuda 8″ benchtop jointer?
ready, set, go …
Replies
Sounds like you need to decide if wide cuts at a shallow level are more of what you will do or if narrower stock will be your norm. I run a 3HP, 8 inch machine and an 8" cut puts a noticeable effort on the machine for a deep cut. I can't imagine an 8" benchtop handling much stock removal per pass. The point being is the width or the depth of cut your priority.
I thought, at one time, that I would be the exception and that I could make a benchtop do what I needed done. I listed it for sale within 30 days and took a loss on it. This doesn't mean the same will apply to you. I'm just reporting my costly proce$$ ;-)
I bought the Wahuda 8" jointer about 3 years ago and use it when making mostly small items such as cutting boards, trays, boxes, etc. I don't think I have ever had a need to joint anything longer that ~4'; much the material I use is rough (as in chain saw rough) cut ash, oak, maple, etc. and as a hobbyist, it has served me well. Finish is very very smooth; it sits on a shop made stand on casters and fits nicely in my shop. Have not yet touched the carbide inserts.
The conventional wisdom is to invest in the biggest bandsaw and the widest jointer that will fit in your shop. And to get a planer that is at least twice the width of your jointer.
Most boards I buy are about 10 inches wide. An eight inch jointer seems adequate and I'd hate to have less room.
I have a Wahuda 8" jointer I use as my primary jointer as a hobbyist woodworker in half of a two-car garage. It is bolted to the top of a set of plywood drawers on locking casters for moving into a clear workspace when in use.
I have been largely impressed with it and have had no issues milling rough lumber up to 5 feet in length with the combination of the Wahuda and a Delta 22-580. The 5' pieces certainly require careful operation, but I have not had any significant issues with the machine bolted to the top of the cart. I occasionally use a roller stand to prevent significant tipping of lumber from the infeed side while I start the machine and dust collector.
For 24" stock I think the Wahuda would do more than what you need. I have had no issues with the carbide cutters (and have turned them once). It makes a very clean cut and I have not had any issues with the motor bogging down (with primarily cherry and quartersawn oak). If it bogs down, I'd just reduce depth of cut and make another pass.
I considered a 6 inch jointer when I made the purchase and I am really glad I went with the 8 inch machine. I can be much more selective at the lumberyard when I can joint a 7.5 inch board without fuss, and for the rare wider board I use a jack plane. I can't imagine going with a 6 inch jointer, even floorstanding, at this point.
A dust collector is a useful addition and I have a Mini-Gorilla that clears chips quite effectively from the 4 inch port. Eventually, I'll upgrade, but it would be a luxury and I'd buy the Wahuda again if I went back in time.