Replies

1. 
   RoyinMD | Aug 14, 2003 06:20am | #1

   I've never experimented much, but have built a bunch a walnut projects. Always used Minwax Special Walnut and wax or more recently satin poly, well rubbed.

   Enjoy, Roy

2. 
   SgianDubh | Aug 14, 2003 06:59am | #2

   A lot depends on what you are trying to achieve. The finish for drawer fronts for example has to withstand different stresses to that applied to a table top. Where shellac may be appropriate in one circumstance, it may not be in another-- for example I would tend to avoid shellac for table tops, particularly dining and coffee tables. Booze spilt on to shellaced tops is detrimental to the polish, alcohol being shellacs solvent.

   Grain filling is quite a time consuming process, and it is mostly done on horizontal surfaces. For example, a coffee table all of walnut might only have the upper face of the table top filled. 

   I don't think I could suggest what I'd consider a 'best' finish without knowing the use of the finished item, but here's a polishing routine I like to use on american black walnut table and cabinet tops. It's pretty durable, and not too hard to repair some time down the road. 

   If the natural colour is a little cold which it often is with walnut it can be warmed up by filling the grain with a dark oil based grain filler-- it can be purchased in a can ready mixed and the colour tinkered with by adding universal tinting colours (UTC's) from artists suppliers. Filling the bare wood grain with this stuff will impart a little extra colour to the wood, as well as choking the open grain with pigment.

   Follow this up with a few coats of oil alkyd varnish, rubbed on, brushed on, or sprayed on. The varnish has a slight ambering or yellowing effect, and the combination of dark grain filler and varnish helps to rather even out any colour and tone differences leaving a warmer look and quite durable film finish.

   There are bunch of other good options, all dependant as I said earlier on the look you are after, and the intended use of the piece. Slainte.

   Website

3. 
   Telemike | Aug 14, 2003 07:42am | #3

   As Richard said, the finish depends on what you want the finish to do.  Walnut is an open pored wood - that is, you can see the pores if you've prepared the finish well.  If you want a perfectly flat look (flat being physically flat, like a glass surface), you must fill the pores.  I've not done this with walnut, so I can't help you there.

   I finish "natural", more or less.  I don't fill the pores and don't color the wood with dyes or stains.  I first put on one or two coats of watco danish oil sanding between with 220.  Then, I put on 4 - 6 coats of wipe on poly.  I've used water soluble poly, sprayed and brushed, brushed varnishes, and lacquer.  I've settled on the wipe on poly and watco combo for most projects because I'd rather do a few finishes well than lots badly.

   Between coats of poly, I sand with 220 and then 320 for the last coats.  I wait a week or so, then rub out with 320 lightly and 0000 steel wool.  An aggressive rub with terry rounds out the finish.

   I use the watco because the walnut is too light without it.  The Minwax wipe on I use is very clear, with little color.  The watco adds some amber and really develops the color of the walnut.  If I want light woods to stay light, I omit the watco.

   The stuff I like the best is made with local walnut air dried in the barn.  It has subtle purple and red highlights that disappear with kiln dried wood.  Alas, I have to buy most of my walnut!

4. 
   aaronwe | Aug 15, 2003 05:26am | #4

   I have done several projects in walnut, and I really like to use a combination of linseed oil and wax. As the others have said, it depends on what are you finishing.

5. 
   RMillard | Aug 15, 2003 05:02pm | #5

   I have made several pieces in walnut Since my pieces are all reproductions, I try to keep the walnut light and at the same time kill the cool gray/purple cast of steamed wood. The best way I have found to do this is to dye the wood orange. I use an aniline water dye mixed about half the recommended strength . Apply this and when dry put on a coat of linseed oil ( I really like the Tried and True Danish oil) that has been tinted with a little golden brown Trans Tint dye. After this, the top coat is up to you, taking into account compatibility of course. I use shellac for everything but table tops, which get Rock Hard Table Top varnish. I fill grain on all flat or gently curved surfaces. I apply the filler after a thin coat of shellac to avoid a muddy look, and to prevent the filler from coloring the wood. Filling grain is a messy, boring job, but the results are worth it.

   Rob Millard

1. 
   Telemike | Aug 17, 2003 07:13am | #6

   Rob, what do you use to fill and how do you use it?  I've only filled light woods with oil based wood filler, and then, only a few times.

1. 
   RMillard | Aug 17, 2003 04:24pm | #7

   For mahogany I use either the red or brown oil based filler( I've never used water based filler)   sold by Constantine’s. For the walnut I use the Behlen Van Dyke brown. I have not made anything from oak, ash etc.  The Constantine’s filler needs to be thinned down considerably, while the Behlen is fairly thin as it comes from the can. For thinning I use mineral spirits, if I need extended working time, for hot weather or large surfaces. If I’m working in cool conditions or on small jobs, I use naphtha .The Behlen filler "dries" quite fast, so I sometimes add a little linseed oil to slow it down in hot weather.  I never apply the filler to bare wood , in order to avoid a muddy look. Instead I apply one very thin coat of shellac. This coat must be thin, or it will partially fill the pores, and the filler won’t “bite” as well as it could. The process of applying the filler couldn’t be more simple, just slop it on and wait until it turns from looking wet to sort of hazy/dry. On moldings, or in corners I wipe the filler off sooner rather than later, but on flat surfaces I let it set until its pretty hard. I then scrape it off with a plastic putty knife, that I’m sure is free of nicks or sharp corners. Like everyone else, I wipe across the grain with burlap, turning frequently to a clean area as it loads up. Follow with cheese cloth going lightly with the grain. Look carefully for any areas that appear streaked, as these will be even more pronounced when the top coat is applied. I sometimes apply a second coat a day later. Let the filler dry at least 3 days before top coating , more in under cool or humid conditions. Some people have a condescending opinion of grain fillers, but when applied as described, I find they give great clarity, and result in a highly refined appearance.

                                                 Rob Millard